Anna Sui Is Not a Fan of the New, Shorter Fashion Calendar

by Eddie Roche

Legendary New York designer Anna Sui showed her stellar Spring collection last night at Spring Studios for a front row including Karen Elson and Coco Rocha. Backstage we asked Sui to weigh in on the condensed fashion calendar and let’s just say she (and a lot of other people we’ve talked to) isn’t a fan! 

Let’s talk about the modeling casting. There were a lot of young and fresh faces. Was that intentional?
It was a combination. A lot of girls didn’t do shows this season. There were photoshoots, and there was a lot of overlapping this week because of the condensed schedule. It’s a combination of things. There were so many beautiful new girls who had the flavoring of what I wanted for the collection. When the girl that opened, came into my office. It was like sunshine came into my office.

What do you think of the new condensed schedule?
It’s not working. It’s too crammed. Not only are designers having a hard time casting, journalists are having a hard time writing their pieces. If they have to go to shows from the morning to the end of the day and then turn around and do it again the next day, how are they going to write their thoughts? How are they going to do their work? It’s not realistic. There’s got to be a different way. I also wish we could go back to October for the shows. Business was better then. Everyone is kidding each other. This does not work and it hasn’t been working for years. Why can’t we change the schedule and give everyone a life again?

Are you very opinionated? 
No. Not really. I’m not very controversial or political in my interviews but I’m kind of pissed off. It’s time people are realistic. It’s not working.

Let’s talk about the collection.
I wanted it be light and airy and capture an innocence that I think is missing right now. There’s too much everything blatant in your face, sexuality, drugs. I called it Victorianna.  There’s hardly any black, no somber jewel tones or heavy embellishments.  The  color palette is totally new for me – filled with dreamy saturated pastels – buttercream, lemon curd, powder blue, cornflower, pale pistachio, Crème de Menthe, Wedgewood lilac, dusty rose, whipped cream, powder puff  When I was a kid my favorite movie was Pollyanna because she was the ultimate optimist. I wanted that optimism, that dreaming of the possibilities.

Are you an optimist? 
Totally! Why would I be doing this if I wasn’t? You have to be.

Now, check out all the looks from Sui’s Spring 2020 show below — it’s fun and colorful and oh-so-Sui! 

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