Emilio Pucci Fall 2015

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It’s all but officially confirmed that Peter Dundas showed his last collection chez Pucci yesterday (to wit: he took his post-show bow with his entire team), and the Fall looks shown seemed to be a cheery way of marking the possible end of an era. There was the usual array of prints to decipher, but the dozen or so opening looks were missing their usual spark of color. These were frocks, skirts, and sweater dresses, mostly in black, with a few hints of red and white. Later on the color returned, with a punchy purple strapless gown that swept down the catwalk and an acid green mini dress, toned down with a forest green coat. 

The playful zodiac pieces that were featured throughout the show felt very true to the brand’s DNA, and golden motifs adorned a pair of thigh-high boots and a long cape. However, the most truly Pucci pieces here were the beaded mini dresses: a black swirl of crystals over a nude base, haphazard stripes of golden shimmer on a black chiffon number, and a skimpy white camisole dress with studs at the neckline and fringe at the hem. Dundas’ time at Pucci will certainly be memorable for his mastery of the it-girl dress, among other things.

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