DAY 3: SEPTEMBER 25, 2019
On a rainy day in Paris I went to the gardens of the Musée du quai Branly to watch Lanvin’s show. Sheltered by umbrellas, we witnessed an astonishing collection inspired by the comic Little Nemo in Slumberland, a total classic. While the event took place in silence, we were given headphones that played the soundtrack just for us. Celebrities like Nicolas Maury, Tyga the rapper, Isabelle Huppert and Kelela sat first row. In terms of the collection, balloon sleeves were the protagonists in coats like the one Gigi Hadid wore matched with pressed trousers, moccasins and a handkerchief to the neck. Comic stamps were also recurrent not only in items like blouses but also in accessories. Lastly, chaplain-like hats gave the outfits a summer vibe.
The day moved on to the Grand Palais for Maison Margiela. Creative director John Galliano surprised us once again with his extravagant designs inspired by uniforms from the First and Second World War, going from formal military clothes to the typical nurse outfits. The models walked along the runway to a soundtrack that ranged between Marlene Dietrich and techno music while wearing big double breasted jackets with multiple pockets, dresses in the best nurse-like style and even an orange nun’s habit matched with a biker jacket. But the one model that caught every eye was Leon Dame, who wore a navy suit and heeled boots and walked down the runway in an exaggerated fashion that blew all over social networks.
Many of the fabrics were intervened with white paint, dramatic cuts and hand-cut holes, creating an image of battle-worn clothes. As for the accessories, curved heel high boots stood out as well as sailor necks, whereas the hats paid homage to the original designs of the Maison.
To finish the day, I attended the Rochas show which took place at the majestic Palais de Chailot. In a dark room that had a window through which the Eiffel Tower could be seen, a feeling of being inside a big black box with came over us. As I arrived, I greeted my friend Etienne Russo from Villa Eugenie who was in charge of the production of not only for Rochas, but also for Chanel and many others at Fashion Week. The collection, made of simple cuts and vibrant colors allowed designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua to create amazing combinations perfect for summer wear like blue and green, lime and red or pink and bordeaux. Metallic fabrics shone in looks more fit for the night such as two-piece outfits and loose dresses. Staying on the feminine and sophisticated path, square toed shoes were lined with fabrics in different colors and finished with rhinestones to make for a perfect complement. Models wore next to no make up and natural wavy hair that gave the looks a modern vibe.