Zimmermann Pays Tribute To Simpler Times, Without Sacrificing Intricate Details

by Freya Drohan

Long, long ago, when the word ‘tinder’ only referred to something that was literally dry and flammable (and we don’t mean your love life), the sharp and slick teens and young adults of the 1950s found their forever flames in dance halls. Perusing images of these lovebirds laughing, dancing, twirling, and flirting was enough to inspire creative director Nicky Zimmermann’s new Resort ’24 collection, unveiled digitally yesterday evening. And after taking it all in, we’ve certainly been hit by Cupid’s arrow.

Titled Matchmaker, the offering is a ‘S.W.A.L.K’ love letter to the birth of the teenager—the official concept of being between childhood and adulthood only arrived in the mid 1940s—and the unchartered territory of coming of age. Zimmermann said she wanted to channel the optimism and exuberance she felt from looking at these images from dance halls—along with a healthy dose of rebellion too. After all, is there anything more intrinsic to the teenage experience?

The prevailing silhouettes and staples of the 1950s were all given a luxe, modernday makeover—bringing to mind a chic and updated take that’ll go down nicely with those who have fond memories of growing up watching Grease and Pleasantville. Pieces that were predominantly feminine, such as full circle skirts, plaid two-pieces, cropped turtlenecks teamed with midi-lengths, and Charles James-esque cuts on debutante-approved satin gowns, resisted veering into costume territory. They also juxtaposed nicely with the more Rebel Without a Cause-style short sleeved shirts, overalls, denim, and motorcycle gloves. Everything was tied neatly together too, as the gals of the age were wont to do, with the styling additions of ballet flats, silk headscarves and neckerchiefs, and ankle socks paired with kitten heel pumps.

As Dean Martin’s voice would say reverberating through the dance hall—that’s amore: 

 

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