Milan Fashion Week was back in full swing this season, with a decadence and magnetism that only Italians know best! From Fendi and Versace to Alberta Ferretti, and everything in between, each designer opted to go all out. With the majority of the renowned fashion houses opting to reveal their Spring Summer 2022 collections via live in-person shows, there was nothing but optimism and vitality buzzing through the city—from the runways to the streets outside. Here are five things to note!
Think color—lots of color. Undoubtedly, the reigning hues of the week were cobalt blue and pink, as splashes of these
vibrant shades were visible in nearly every runway show and presentation. Enter: Versace. Just in case Dua Lipa’s closing of the show in a hot pink chainmail dress didn’t cause enough excitement online and in the venue, the entire collection was equally as and poignantly cheerful and vivacious. True to Donatella’s signature style, the show screamed of a boldness reminiscent of the Versace we all knew in the ’80s. Speaking of bold, we cannot leave behind Prada. This season Miuccia Prada and Raf Simon’s collection surprised its spectators with brilliant pops of neon yellow and orange against a dark and seductive backdrop. The design duo proved that a pulsating palette colors can be sensual and intoxicating.
Embrace the ’70s
Although almost every show had a pulsating nod to the disco era, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini and Fendi really epitomized the movement with their shows. At Philosophy, models floated down the runway in fringed jackets, pleated and flared floral pants, and button-down dresses, embodying the theme of freedom. Oh, and did I mention that the soundtrack to this show was none other than Barry White?! Also keeping true to the ’70s momentum, Fendi, under the direction of Kim Jones, explored a joyful irreverence that has historically defined the house, this time inspired by the works of Puerto Rican-born fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez; whose graphics reigned supreme in the era. Jones couldn’t have described the collection better when he said, “Our woman has to let loose a bit—she’s going out, dressing up. We’ve all been locked away for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now.”
Keep it neutral
I get it: bold colors and platform heels may not be for everyone, hence the dominance of the Pantone color of the season— “Coco Mocha.” In Alberta Ferretti’s collection, colors were mainly soft and neutral, with subtle hints of precious stone colors such as ruby, turquoise, emerald, and amethyst. Blouses were worn with long skirts, pants had breath-taking deep pleats, and jackets had a masculine feel with a decidedly feminine allure. We also saw perfectly polished neutrals at Tod’s. Creative director, Walter Chiapponi, played with a wide range of unexpected materials to enhance the variety of the collection—from raw wool to sleeveless mini-dresses, it was clear that Chiapponi was out to create a wardrobe made of playful counterpoints.
When it doubt, add print and pattern
Etro’s newest collection proved that mixing and matching patterns is right on pulse for 2022 and beyond. Creative Director, Veronica Etro, once again incorporated a wide range of patterns, giving the audience a kaleidoscope of variety. The show’s finale featured Etro’s iconic paisley print, this time on a ’90s inspired slip dress, symbolizing the connection between the brand’s past and present. Blumarine also cemented the idea that pattern is here to stay. The revival of the infamous Italian
label, now led by designer Nicola Brognano, pulled plenty of Y2K pop-scene fashion references. Among the cargo pants and floral prints, a tiger-printed chiffon slip dress proved to be a crowd favorite. Need I say more?
Take it to the streets!
Let’s face it, we can take notes from the runway—but the street style here in Milan is a mesmerizing catwalk in and of itself. No matter where you turn, you’ll find your favorite fashionistas jetting from show to show while giving us some fashion pointers along the way. Oversized blazers, coats, and biker jackets were a favorite amongst the crowd. Top with a ’90s-inspired brown lip and a chunky platform heels and you’re on your way to being snapped by a photographer on the buzzing streets of the city yourself.
Now, on to Paris! Written by Idalia Salsamendi.