Gucci Spring/Summer 2017

Alessandro Michele opened his show for Gucci, titled “Magic Lanterns,” with models trotting out onto a red carpet in a hazy, dim-lit space to the tune of Florence Welch’s interpretations of 18th century William Blake poems. It was a dark treasure trove of extraordinary vintage looks rewired for the future. “Hollywood Forever Cemetery” was the slogan on one sash that adorned a fabulous red gown. It was a beautiful wasteland of sorts with references that felt like you were on a historical journey of sorts with Michele. There were fantastic headpieces, from veils to Taxi Driver-style sun hats to strange nude pilot caps. There was everything from an elaborate ’80s gown, circa Ivanka Trump’s heyday, and a disco-tinseled coat to a pink taffeta gown with Victorian influences to a Renaissance silhouette on a purple gown with Chinois closures. The latter was worn with giant platforms, which can be transformed into slippers—they were inspired by Chopines, wooden platform shoes measuring up to 18 inches, that prostitutes in Venice used to wear in a city known for its floods. This collection was yet another magical journey into the mind of fashion’s newest and brightest star and it was jam-packed with fantasy. As William Blake once said, “No bird soars too high if he soars with his own wings.”