Runway

Paris Fashion Week: Nudists at Kenzo, Natalie Westling’s Moment at Vuitton, Poolside Chic at Miu Miu, and More

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Kenzo Spring/Summer 2017
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon held their show for Kenzo as the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, a Parisian museum dedicated to the history of architecture. Lim and Leon never miss a chance to have a “moment” on their runways and in Paris the backdrop to their spring show were real live human statues. Models of all shapes and sizes posed as nude statues to emphasize the past-meets-present theme of the show. But the clothing was not inspired by any stiff museum themes—this was about Studio 54, fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, and glammed up party girls. Edie Campbell opened the show with rouged eyes and lips and a gold lame mini dress with a sporty white trench in an ode to girls like Pat Cleveland during Lopez’s day. What followed were made-for-the-club attire including sequined graffitied party dresses, nylon jumpsuits, and paillette dresses printed with lips and other black and white imagery. And the workwear pieces that opened the show looked cool and on the mark. This is what the girls’ in Lim and Leon’s world are already wearing and will want to be wearing.

 

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2017
In an era of creative imitation, Nicolas Ghesquière‘s loyalty to conceptual fashion means that he’s retained a look that’s entirely his own. Come spring, you’re not likely to see these zany cut-outs, pieced-together sweatshirts, and swishy, spangled eveningwear on the racks at Zara. So what to make of his Spring ’17 offering? C’est compliqué. The highlights: A long-sleeved, gold-flecked grey dress, punctuated with a swatch of black, on Natalie Westling; a cobalt lace tunic and matching pants; a modernized military jacket made of yellow gold sequins. But when the magic dissipates, the big ideas that remain are in the realm of accessories—handled croc clutches and, especially, luggage-like cell phone cases.

 

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2017
Feel the warmth? Miuccia Prada‘s brand of quirky chic is most addictive when she’s riffing heavily on a single idea, and for Spring ’17, it was her multicolored fur coats that captured our hearts and minds. Faintly evocative of seventies upholstery patterns, they came awash in shades of periwinkle, chocolate brown, crimson, and orange. Pair with a floral swim cap and lavender shower shoes, something more office-friendly, whatever. The sixties-era car coats, hot pants, and, adorably, sweetly smocked crop tops suggested a vintage beach vibe. (Wedges and sandals were embroidered with all matters of marine life.) And the gamine tie-back dresses will work wonders for gals of every age.

 

Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring/Summer 2017
Attention! Beautified versions of French military dress marched through a desert of treacherous boulders on Giambattista Valli’s runway at Moncler Gamme Rouge. French Foreign Legion hats, capes, dresses with holsters that held a purse instead of a gun, and red, white, and blue accents of the French flag contrasted with more fragile, beautiful floral mini dresses. Jackets were printed with architectural plans for historical French structures and ‘60s style mod suits looked like the perfect way to uniform dress. There are obvious political connotations, but we prefer to think that Valli is simply solidering on for chic.

 

Ellery Spring/Summer 2017
Australian designer Kym Ellery has a growing fan base and season after season it’s easy to see why. Known for her exaggerated flared pants and shirt sleeves, Ellery, while maintaining that DNA, has been exploring new themes and growing her collection—she’s recently added very covetable footwear to her bustling business. There were some killer moto-style pants with the now pervasive ringed zipper, that simply screamed must-have, ditto the white sashed blouse worn on top. Wide-leg croc pants looked…well, expensive…but also incredibly chic. Suiting was adorned with spiraling ruffles, her signature belled pants came with track stripes, and rings hung from ribbons accenting a ruched white dress. And for those looking to make a real fashion statement come spring, those zippered hot pink leather pants are going to be a must. Ellery is looking less and less up-and-coming her designs increasingly look like the big leagues.

 

Drome Spring/Summer 2017
Marianna Rosati is known for her fine work with leather and this season the fabric came in lightweight versions for spring, so soft that it was tied into bows or crimped into a patchwork of ruching to create movement. She also worked foiling onto leather to a stunning effect in a shiny coppery gold mix on an ’80s silhouette. Bold patterns, strong shoulders, and colorful confetti style prints dominated. Every look in this collection was designed to stand out in a crowd, some more than others, but for the more conservative woman that still wants to make a fashion statement the printed day dresses, trench coats, and sarong style leather skirts will be just the ticket. And the cream colored trench with winged shoulders should fly off the racks.

 

 

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