It’s New York Fashion Week, and we’re bringing you the best of this season’s collections and designers from the (mostly digital) front rows and behind the scenes. In case you missed them, we’ve rounded up some show and presentation highlights.
Maisie Wilen wants to party—which is understandable, given that her printed dresses were the must-have pieces for going out pre-pandemic. This season, she rejected the current “norm” of comfort dressing, choosing to show pieces that incorporated softness without losing her signature structures and textures (AKA no sweatpants in sight!). Trilobal suits provided a cool alternative to your standard jumpsuit, while twill skirt suits and perforated knitwear in palettes of orange, pink, pale blues, and greens serve as subversive, sharp looks for the office or WFH. Of course, Wilen showed her staple jersey dresses and tops, this time covered in prints from trippy lines and swirls to psychedelic florals mixed with QR codes. The collection was clearly an ode to dressing for fun pre-virus, while presenting pieces one could wear whether they were quarantining indoors or (hopefully soon!) hitting the town with your going out crew. Choosing to show her fourth line in video format, the former Yeezy designer’s models strutted across a reflective floor covered in water and surrounded by monochrome green walls. However, the absence of a traditional fashion crowd was barely noticeable, thanks to a soundtrack of voices mimicking the front row set.
Dressing up isn’t dead—and if you think so, Christian Juul Nielsen will surely convince you otherwise. The Danish designer’s second menswear collection for Aknvas fully leaned into the space between hard and soft dressing, with a range of colorful pieces perfect for wearing at home or out and about. Soft, slightly oversized knits in bold red, light purple, icy blue, and pale yellow were paired with gray and blue pleated trousers that could be worn for just about any occasion. Even his statement pieces felt versatile; a pair of pants in a quilted maroon puffer material (which was also seen on a massive tote bag and fall-ready jackets), a buttery blue leather shirt, and a plaid gray trench coat would be perfect for wearing in or outdoors, and could be paired with anything in one’s closet for instant Scandinavian style. During a time when dressing up is more transformative than ever, Nielsen’s latest proved both practical and comfortable. Aknvas’ menswear is clearly headed in the right direction—and we can’t wait to see where Nielsen takes it next.
Veronica Beard is known for its strong, tailored suits and perfect pairs of denim jeans—but when people aren’t wearing either, what’s a fashion duo to do? For the Veronicas, their Fall 2021 collection veered between the fantastical and the comfortable, a distinct change from their standard versatile pieces. On the more casual side, the sisters-in-law presented a gray sweat set, sneakers with Velcro straps, cargo pants, and oversized jackets in a camouflage print. On the opposite end of the spectrum were pieces we’ve been wishing we could dress up in, but will settle for donning around the house in the meantime: a standout sequin dress with flower detailing, numerous paisley floral numbers, heeled clogs and pointed toe boots, and a dreamy printed velvet suit. Many pieces also appeared strongly influenced by the outdoors or classical American menswear; gray oversized suit trousers, plaid coats, and tops like a flannel and a rugby shirt gave off an effortless vibe, as though this season’s muse swiped them from her boyfriend on the simple basis of comfort and ease. Of course, several Veronica Beard staples still made the cut. Blazers, printed blouses, and a few pairs of denim were a welcome sight, and proved the duo wouldn’t let a pandemic prevent them from doing what they do best.
Victor Glemaud’s strength has always laid in knitwear, whether through sleek sweaters or sexy ribbed dresses. For Fall 2021, Glemaud’s “Ode to Hope” specifically focused on this part of his brand and reimagined how people are wearing it today. Knits reigned supreme, whether in plain or pinstriped separates, cozy sweaters, or his sexy, figure-hugging dresses (that have graced celebs like Keke Palmer and Indya Moore) in a palette of black, white, rust, yellow, tan, and pink. This season, Glemaud specifically pushed the technical aspects of fabrics like cotton cashmere and merino wool as well, crafting patchwork jacquard without linking and accentuating pieces with varying sizes of cable stitches. The designer also collaborated with Nigerian brand Shekudo on two clog styles (slingback and open-back) made from leftover leather and suede this season, which are currently available on TheRealReal. Overall, it was a refreshing reminder that clean lines and sharp silhouettes aren’t going away because of a pandemic—and can even be reincorporated in pieces that are comfortable, too.