NYFW: COS, PatBO, Melitta Baumeister, & More Close Spring 2025’s Shows!

Spring has sprung! New York Fashion Week featured Spring 2025 collections from numerous designers and brands. From the Upper East Side to Brooklyn, it was certainly an affair to remember—and truly embraced the city that never sleeps! Discover the top collections to peruse from the final runways, below!

Cotte D’Armes

For his first solo runway show, Clarence Ruth’s label Cotte D’Armes took over the Ned NoMad. Mixing utilitarian and formal inspirations, Ruth’s Spring 2025 collection featured padded jackets, textured suiting, and structured minidresses in hues of black, beige, blue, white, and green. Nods to the designer’s religious background were shown with pops of red, seen within longer dresses and allover gingham patterns. Details including geometric cutouts, chameleon prints, and bodycon piping furthered the notion of elegant dressing with a downtown flair—which was also seen in the brand’s standout’ LED-lit “hip dresses.” Ruth even utilized upcycled fabrics and materials to make up 85% of his collection, proving that sustainability is continuing to play a core role within the design process. His brand’s emphasis on modern leadership could also be seen in the audience, where Anthony Ramos, Jamien Sherwood, Chris Klemens, Jesse Bon Jovi, Kevon Looney, AP Dhillon, Sharina Gutierrez, Perris Howard, Wendell Lissimore, and more enjoyed Poppi, Voss, and Hamptons Water throughout the show.

All images: Cotte D’Armes/Shotti

COS

COS returned to NYFW for its Spring 2025 show, held at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The collection, which featured both the brand’s mainline and Atelier lines, emphasized minimalism through a range of black, beige, and gray trench coats, overcoats, dresses, sheer skirts, and elegantly draped tops. A variety of whimsical accents and chic accessories—including lightly fringed collars, leather gloves, and pillowy quilted clutches—added a light-hearted finish to the range. Notable standouts included pops of brown, white, and green from faux fur coats, loafers, kitten heels, and ballet flats—which we spotted Emma Roberts, Colman Domingo, Chloe Sevigny, Issa Rae, and Emily Ratajkowski ogling over from the front row.

All images: Courtesy of COS

PatBO

It’s time to fly! Patricia Bonaldi’s latest PatBO collection, “Ethereal,” emphasized the elegance and movement of butterflies. The designer brought glitzy mini and maxi dresses, jeans, crop tops, and skirts a burst of enchanting glamour with sparkling crystals, beadwork, and embroidery. Nature’s organic beauty was core to the line, seen in a smooth palette of pinks, browns, wine red, white, and shimmering gold and silver—especially on the runway, where models strutted past moss-lined mirrors and green foliage. Looks with allover prints or heavily embellished bodices literally depicted butterflies with a hint of Y2K flair. Meanwhile, others hinted at their fluid movement through layered fringe, shimmering metallic pailettes, and flounced ruffles—including a swishing maxi dress worn by Alessandra Ambrosio!

All images: Darian DiCiano

Bibhu Mohapatra

Patti Smith served as Bibhu Mohapatra’s muse this season, both through her own punk spirit and influential poetry. That bohemian sensibility could be seen in multicolored striped coats, trenches, and biker jackets, complemented by tailored trousers—and even a pair of couture jeans. Of course, Mohapatra’s signature eveningwear was front and center for Spring 2025. Flowing minidresses and gowns crafted with sheer silks and tulle, floral lace, netting, and oversized glossy flowers packed a punch throughout—particularly in a bold palette of blush, orange, black, white, and bright pink.

 

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Ronald van der Kemp

Concrete jungle where dreams are made of! Couturier Ronald van der Kemp was clearly in an Empire State of mind when designing his Spring 2025 collection, inspired by New York City’s iconic landmarks and diverse style. The designer’s latest included heavily embellished jackets, multi-textured coats, and three-dimensional and draped dresses—plus homages to the American flag and Statue of Liberty. In a powerful finale moment (as the show took place on the morning of 9/11), van der Kemp’s models ditched their couture for T-shirts and jeans accented with red, white, and blue stars and stripes. The designer strolled after them to raucous applause, proving that—just like the city itself—fashion is strong and ever-evolving.

 

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Melitta Baumeister

When one door closes, another opens! As NYFW’s Spring 2025 season ended, Melitta Baumeister made her runway debut—one of the week’s most anticipated shows, following her 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund win. Reflecting the movement of athletes’ bodies, Baumeister showed a variety of sculptural and fluid dresses, oversized sports-inspired jerseys, and sleek separates in black, white, pink, and mustard yellow hues. A burst of punky humor could be seen through double-heeled clogs, spike-trimmed bags—some spilling steam onto the runway—and a massive black biker jacket, all set to a soundtrack of heavy breathing. However, Baumeister’s show also celebrated diversity and the accomplishments of human bodies, with a cast spanning a wide range of races, body types, ages, and disabilities—including Paralympian sprinter Scout Bassett and rapper Offset.

All images: Gerardo Somoza

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