Valentino Couture Fall 2015

by Daniel Chivu

This season Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli brought their couture collection for Valentino home to Rome. Guests were treated first to an exhibition of the Italian maison’s couture dresses, which were hidden around the city at places that have inspired them. They could be found everywhere from the Biblioteca Casanatense to Giorgio de Chirico’s apartment, which is now a museum (de Chircio’s work also served as the backdrop for Karl Lagerfeld‘s 50th anniversary couture show for Fendi this season).

The show was equally transporting. While the collection was mostly black, save for a few royal red numbers, it was truly divine and utterly Roman. The first dress to float down the runway was a gown that subtly mimicked the symbol of imperial Rome—an eagle holding a red ribbon in its beak. The red ribbon cinched the waist while the eagle took form in the length of the dress. What followed was one spectacular look after another. Could anything be more splendid than those capes? Or how about the incredibly detailed lace numbers? Or the golden gladiator skirts? Or the lush velvet looks that closed the show? Even a simple one-shouldered rouge gown was draped to absolute perfection. Many of these elements have become the new signatures of Valentino under Grazia-Chiurri and Piccioli and they never cease looking like some of the richest most regal clothing on the runway today. These are indeed museum-worthy pieces. Bellisima! Bravo! 


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