Tanya Taylor Fall/Winter 2017

The kimono has seen plenty of interpretations on the runways, yet Tanya Taylor’s approach this season was fresh, loose, and modern. For her Fall ’17 collection, presented at Pearl River Mart (a stone’s throw from her studio), Taylor didn’t look as much to the garment’s traditional silhouette, but tapped into the color palette and patterns that decorated Meisen robes of the early 1920s. During that time in Japan, wearing color outside a garment (rather than hidden away in the lining) was novel and brave, making this collection an homage to those fearless women who wore them then and bold female figures of today. 

The hand-painted prints were pretty, but not simple, and looked particularly striking against a marigold long-sleeved floor-length dress. Embroidery, fur trim, and pleats were pretty and pleasing, but the moto boots and military pieces added a welcomed edge.

“It was the first time in 1920s Japan where women were wearing a lot of color, and color was seen as a powerful communication tool,” Taylor told us of her inspo. “I love color because I think it brings a lot of optimism and happiness to someone. I wanted to make fall feel playful with texture. I love the old-meets-new vibes, and there’s also a lot of romantic details with ruffles, and this metallic little dress with fur accents.”

Plus, guess who we spotted soaking in the collection? Chelsea Clinton, who no one seemed to notice was in the crowd—she slid in with a publicist and was donning a nondescript winter coat. What brought her out this NYFW? “I love Tanya Taylor. She’s a good friend of mine and I’m grateful to be able to support her,” she told us. “This is really my only plan for New York Fashion Week this season—I love seeing people that I love doing the things that they love well.” As for how she’s keeping calm these days, she quipped: “I don’t think we have an option to stay calm these days.”

BY SYDNEY SADICK AND KRISTEN HEINZINGER