The Daily Front Row‘s perennially chic correspondent Sofia Achaval de Montaigu is soaking up the glamour in Europe. Below, she fills us in on all the highlights and the unforgettable moments that took place in the fashion capital during the Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter ’22 schedule.
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti gave us an elegant and romantic collection that incorporated galactic touches—not only in items but also in the images projected on a screen that streamed cosmic videos and abstract images. Sitting in the first row enjoying the show were Carolina Daur, Olivia Palermo and Leonie Hanne, who wore a pair of golden paillette pants from the brand and caught every photographer’s eye. Ferretti’s designs oscillated between day clothes like wide-leg trousers, long sweaters, and fur coats to sparkly sequin dresses. The first looks combined a discreet color palette that included camel, gray, blue, purple, and red hues, and sometimes metallic shades. Among my favorite items were embroidered mini dresses, and towards the end, long metallic dresses with majestic sleeves and dramatic hoods which seemed to float over the runway.
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Armani
Giorgio Armani’s show took place at an underground salon at Via Borgonuovo, an intimate venue that accommodated celebrities like the actress Anne Hathaway and her husband Adam Shulman. The runway was a sombre dark blue and green, and reflective in its center was the stage where we would see Armani’s new collection. Before the beginning of the show, the designer’s voice announced that the show would be held without music to acknowledge the current situation in Ukraine. In the silence, we witnessed the impeccable tailoring of velvet and silk garments in dark colors. Geometric prints brought some dynamism to the line while embroidered items filled the runway with sparkling flashes.
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Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta presented its first collection with Matthieu Blazy as creative director. The collection combined glamor with relaxed outfits that ranged from jeans with white tank tops to short dresses and knee-length boots in different colors. Leather items were the ones that stood out the most, and matching two-piece sets, maxi skirts with fringes. and braided leather bags were all major hits. Towards the end, a parade of items made of iridescent fabrics brought some glitz to the show, and Paola Manes closed the presentation in a nude lace minidress and yellow boots. Brava!
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- Bottega Veneta Fall Winter ’22 (IMaxTree)
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- Bottega Veneta Fall Winter ’22 (IMaxTree)
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- Bottega Veneta Fall Winter ’22 (IMaxTree)
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- Bottega Veneta Fall Winter ’22 (IMaxTree)
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- Bottega Veneta Fall Winter ’22 (IMaxTree)
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- Bottega Veneta Fall Winter ’22 (IMaxTree)
Dolce & Gabanna
Dolce & Gabbana presented its collection surrounded by a great setting in a show attended by celebrities like Sharon Stone, Gunna, Kitty Spencer, and Brahim Diaz. At the venue, the set recreated a virtual graffiti-covered world of neon skyscrapers and cyber avatars in LED screens that covered walls and part of the floor that made up the runway. The collection was punctuated by the ’80s, particularly evident in silhouettes with big shoulder pads. Black prevailed in the color palette, but the textures varied from transparent mesh to faux fur and printed catsuits. Big black sunglasses a futuristic and surreal finishing touch to the outfits.
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Fendi
Fendi presented its new collection at the brand’s own headquarters, with a double-vision effect set designed by Alexandre de Betak. Some of the celebrities that sat in the first row to watch Kim Jones’ creations were Aron Piper, Chiara Ferragni, Danna Paola, and Rita Ora. The actors from Elite caught every photographer’s eye at the show’s entrance. The beginning of the show had Bella Hadid as its star, who wore a see-through lingerie dress in pastels, moss-green gloves, and a cropped pink jacket. The collection was inspired by vintage Fendi—on the one hand, the geometric prints were taken from the Spring Summer collection of 1986, while the see-through textures were influenced by the Fall 2000 line. In addition, Jones presented amazing tailored items, high-waisted trousers, pencil skirts, and mini dresses with corsets that were styled with shirts underneath. Long gloves completed the looks alongside belts and overskirts with pockets, while little sunglasses covered the models’ faces while they carried small golden chain necklaces designed by Delfina Delettrez.
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Gucci
Upon arrival at the presentation for “Exquisite Gucci.” an enormous wall made of mirrors and a black and white runway greeted guests. Serena Williams, Jared Leto, and Rihanna alongside boyfriend A$AP Rocky all created quite a buzz before the show began. The collection was the result of a perfect match between Gucci’s tailoring and Adidas’ athletic aesthetic. Suits included exaggerated shoulder pads and the classic three stripes on the sleeves, while formal trousers were shortened, creating shorts that made for more relaxed outfits. Corsets also included Adidas’ iconic stripes, and they were combined with boots and accessories like caps and bonnets. Fingerless gloves were also a hit. The makeup looks, created by Thomas de Kluyver, also incorporated rhinestones around the eyes and metallic details in green and silver over the eyelids. One of my favorite looks was a black and white long sleeve dress with a high neckline and little ruffles on the waist that had the Adidas logo, under which “Gucci” could be read.
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Jil Sander
Jil Sander presented its new collection at a venue with luxurious curtains and replicas of Greek statues scattered around the runway. Lucie and Luke Meier created sculptured tailoring items, such as suits composed of skirts and jackets highlighting the waist which created hourglass shapes. We could also see bouclé and wool coats, short capes with buttons on the
shoulders, and puffy satin jackets. In addition, ribbons in different lengths adorned long dresses and coats while Chelsea boots with golden buckles completed the outfits. The only major printed fabrics had subtle details inspired by the zodiac signs. Some of my favorite looks were three dresses in different shades of guipure lace that had plunging necklines.
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Max Mara
Max Mara’s show was held at Piazza Lina do Bardi, where the set looked like an actual work of art: two white runways joined in a curve which went all the way to the ceiling creating a double effect. The cubic shaped seats gave a finishing touch to a modern and sophisticated environment. The collection was inspired by Sophie Taeuber-Arp, who was adjacent to the Dada
movement. Ian Griffiths used the shapes of the puppets Taeuber-Arp created for a theater play of the 18th century, “The King Stag”, for his designs, which could be seen in the short skirts and the sleeves of sweaters, in addition to the use of textures. One of the things we saw the most over the runway was plush and furry items: in big coats, trousers, short and long skirts, and also in accessories like handbags and fanny packs. One of my favorite furry outfits included a long camel dress and a matching long coat and balaclava. Wide leg pants with amazing cuts elevated the collection combined with knitted turtlenecks or maxi coats. There’s no questions, the matching balaclavas to the monochromatic looks in red, orange, brown, black, and white, will soon become the must-have item.
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
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- Max Mara Fall Winter ’22 (Courtesy)
Missoni
At Missoni’s presentation of its new collection at the Allianz Cloud stadium, there was an enormous white runway at the center and gigantic LED where colorful images and different figures were projected during the show. The collection created by Alberto Caliri included a variety of colors, textures, and silhouettes, among which low-rise trousers prevailed. Shiny prints stood out in horizontal stripes over long dresses and the classic zigzag lines were seen in coats, skirts, and turtlenecks. Some of my favorite looks were patent leather overalls and gray boots that model and actress Elisa Sednaoui wore on the runway with a ruana over it. The other look that stood out the most for me was a long sleeve lurex dress in pastel colors on model Eva Herzigová. Cowboy boots were the chosen shoes to complete the outfits, besides natural hair styles and subtle makeup looks with a hint of the color peach. Sitting in the first row enjoying the show were Lorenzo Violti, Giulia de Lellis, Veronica Yoko, Larsen Thompson, and Gavin Casalegno.
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Moschino
Jeremy Scott presented his Moschino collection in a very theatrical show, inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Odyssey.” For his designs, he began with objects that he thought he would find in a mansion: Persian carpets, a grandfather’s clock, picture frames and bird cages. A long dress had a harp on its back, a screen with Asian illustrations created a short dress, while some of the dresses’ facades were decorated with cutlery. Another element that caught everyone’s eye were the silver platters used as bustiers, while old keys were worn as earrings too and candelabras and vases acted as hair pieces. Towards the end, Scott came out wearing a red astronaut suit that generated a standing ovation.
Sitting in the first row were celebrities like soccer player Paulo Dybala and the La Rappresentante di Lista duo, who wore striking looks in orange. While on the runway, the ones who caught everyone’s eyes were sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid alongside Mariacarla Boscono.
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Prada
The Prada show was attended by celebrities like Chiara Ferragni and Fedez and even Kim Kardashian, who caught the
paparazzis attention wearing a lime green coverup with matching gloves and a custom made gray coat. Inside the venue, a carpet covered the floor in a green shade which matched the seats that allowed the models to walk in a zig zag fashion between the guests. The models entered the set created by OMA through a tunnel made of LED lights. Kaia Gerber was in charge of opening the show, while Kendall Jenner hit the spotlight not only because of the change in hair color but also because of her outfit: an almost see-through gray dress with slingback heels and a deep blue coat with a belt around the waist with feathers on the shoulders. White tank tops with the triangle-shaped logo at the center front were combined with tight skirts hitting just below the knee (seen in gray flannel, black satin, and a metallic net that included crystals in a mix of colors.) These pieces were the base over which Prada and Simons created outfits that revisited the ’90s using wool sweaters and extra large coats like blazers or jackets. The casting was another hit and included both the “it” models and the brand’s trademark faces like Erin O’Connor, Elise Crombez, Arizona Muse, and Hannelore Knuts. And for the finale, current muse, Euphoria star Hunter Schafer.
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Roberto Cavalli
The Cavalli show took place at Ride Milano, where big graffitis covered the facade creating a very urban vibe. At the
entrance, a big shed-like space with colorful lights predicted a great show. Without a doubt, the first look described the brand’s DNA: it was an animal print catsuit combined with an oversized blazer in the same print with green velvet lapels that stood out more due to the model’s sensual strut to ’80s music. Afterwards, flower prints inspired by the porcelain vanity of the Royal Palace of Capodimonte appeared in 3D appliqués on boots, short dresses, and earrings. The animal and flower prints were the must have of the line, but the collection also included other textures such as leather and chains on necklines, torsos, and waists. In addition, Fausto Puglisi’s designs were overflowing with erotism and sensuality, seen in items with cutouts that bared different parts of the body. One of my favorite looks was a matching set of velvet trousers and a crop top with a printed kimono that had an amazing train which covered the runway.
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Versace
Versace’s show summoned celebrities like Julia Fox, Chiara Ferragni, Fedez and Bianca Balti to the brand’s headquarters.
A shiny red carpet with translucent panels created a corridor through which the models walked dressed in ’90s-style fashion—albeit Versace style! On the floor, the brand’s logo was reflected from the ceiling and flashing lights created a nightclub vibe. The looks were made up of several layers: latex leggings worn under miniskirts and tiny corsets that highlighted the body were combined with tweed jackets or extra large coats, while tight dresses with cutouts created sexy silhouettes and tops with chains added some rock n’ roll. The styling of the outfits was accompanied to perfection with the models’ Donatella-esque straightened hair, almost translucent eyebrows, and dark eyes. Accessories played an important role, and gigantic pearl earrings, gold belts, and chokers stood out the most.
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