Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2015

by Paige Reddinger

It was a team effort chez Schiaparelli this season. Former creative director Marco Zanini left with just two seasons under his belt after proving instrumental in the brand’s revival, when it was resurrected by Italian business tycoon Diego Della Valle after a 60-year hiatus. The latest collection was designed by the label’s in-house staff, and it didn’t disappoint. It was certainly a less over-the-top interpretation of Madame Schiaparelli’s surrealist vision, which also meant that it was a bit more wearable. Bracelets made from ball-end pins and a print of “petites mains'” holding ribbon were certainly a nod to the many behind-the-scenes unsung couture seamstresses that are responsible for the physical creation of the garments. The collection maintained that certain Schiaparelli flair with zany chapeaus from Stephen Jones, like a royal blue Turkish fez or wire crowns. Of course, a Schiaparelli show would not be complete without its signature pink. That certain shade forever known as “Schiaparelli pink” made its way onto the runway and subtly onto a harlequin print gown with a sliver bow embellishment at the hip. Hairstyles ran the gamut from frizzy ’70s hair to pageboy haircuts and cornrows. For a collection with no designated leader, it definitely held its own.

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