Though Paris Fashion Week ends today, we’re still obsessing over a few of the beauty trends that ruled the runways this season. Chanel’s ’80s bliss, face art at Vionnet, Issey Miyake’s geometric designs! Here, a look at some of our faves.
BLAST FROM THE PAST at KENZO and CHANEL
If you’re wondering what miracle eyeshadow gave models’ a bright red ’80s-esque smoky eye at Kenzo, you’re looking in the wrong department. MAC artist Lynsey Alexander used a special soon-to-be-released makeup art, Cosmetics Enhance Me Casual Colour X 6 in Heavenly, to achieve the pop, and fanned the color across the upper cheekbones and eyebrow. Likewise, Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel collection put a twist on ’80s style, and to follow suit, hairstylist Sam McKnight crafted the parfait modern side pony, while Tom Pecheux created a pretty-in-pink lip and brought back an old-school blush technique called draping, a contouring effect with blush.
FUTURISTIC at GIVENCHY, MUGLER, ACNE, and DIOR
Futuristic vibes reigned supreme at these shows. At Valentino, Guido Palau created a slicked down helmet-like style that gathered into a low chignon at the back, and Pat McGrath used minimal makeup for a boyish feel. At Dior, Palau designed a sleek top knot and three or four rows of braids underneath in the back, while Peter Philips created a washed-out complexion, including some models’ eyebrows. At Mugler, the hair was slicked tightly to the head and left to flow freely in the back, another riff on the helmet effect. Lips were the center of attention at Acne, and were painted a metallic-like deep purplish gray.
ROMANCE at VALENTINO and GIAMBATTISA VALLI
Giambittista Valli’s ode to romance was upheld by the beauty department, thanks to Val Garland, who gave mods matte skin and a bright red but soft, un-contoured lip. The feminine essence of Valentino shone through a classic loose, low braid, created by Guido Palau. Makeup was minimal save for a bold red lip on a few models.
ROCK ‘N’ ROLL at VIVIENNE WESTWOOD and SAINT LAURENT
The runways were attitude-charged at Vivienne Westwood and Saint Laurent; at Vivienne Westwood, the women and men wore rocker makeup, from splashy color on the eyes to Courtney Love-type smudged red lips. At Saint Laurent, makeup was minimal, but the hair was edgy, whether it was a full head of wild curls or tightly braided rows.
FACE ART at VIONNET, ISSEY MIYAKE, DRIES VAN NOTEN, and AGANOVICH
While designers popularly opt for low-key makeup on the runways, this season a handful chose to take it to new levels with actual face art. At Vionnet, this cropped up as a 3-D origami-like cheek tattoo; at Issey Miyake, by way of meticulously placed white rings. Dries Van Noten dressed some models in netted masks, but those without had bands of taupe eyeshadow from the temples, across the eyes, and over the bridge of their nose. Yet Aganovich may take the prize for most extreme in this category—many models wore makeup designs on their entire faces, which looked like the impression fabric gives when dipped in paint.