Moncler’s Genius Group Debuts Their Brilliant Spring Collaborations

by Charles Manning

Last season, Moncler dropped the mother of all collaborations when they debuted eight collections at the start of Milan Fashion Week — partnering with the likes of Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccoli, Simone Rocha, and Craig Green, just to name a few. For spring 2018, which Moncler has dubbed “The Next Chapter,” the brand brought back five of those original eight imprints: Moncler 2 1952, Moncler 4 Simone Rocha, Moncler 5 Craig Green, Moncler 6 Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Moncler 7 Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara.

The assorted collections debuted on September 19 in a series of immersive video installations projected onto the industrial walls of a Milanese warehouse. Moncler 1952 deconstructed and reconstructed whole outfits and details in geometric variations that built into a hypnotic video collage. Simone Rocha gave sensual tangibility to an English garden in full bloom, letting petals and leaves and flowers unfurl on screen. Craig Green explored and blasted the sculptural tension and sense of protection of his pieces by unleashing them into a video-space. The modular constructivism of Noir Kei Ninomiya translated into a computerized reconstruction of a 3D virtual garment model. Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara created a cinematic animation that describes an adventure through elements and seasons. The videos themselves have not yet been released to the public, but you can check out the collections below.

Moncler 2 1952
While the men’s collection oozes a pop, urban zest, as highlighted by prints with an high visibility theme, For women, the urban wardrobe is reinterpreted by playing with volumes, textures, and shapes, in a mix of technical and precious materials such as laqué nylon and printed crêpe de chine.

Moncler 4 Simone Rocha
This season, Rocha explores the nature of femininity through the world of gardens and gardening, devising romantic silhouettes swarming with flowers in bloom. Moncler’s Longue Saison duvet is twisted and delicately turned, in a multiplication of flaps, pearls, sequins, flower prints and appliqué. PVC surfaces, aprons, hats, foulards, furry slippers and wellingtons provide an eccentric touch.

Moncler 5 Craig Green
Green’s collection works around notions of protection and performance. His wearable habitats draw inspiration from tents and kites. The idea is brought to the extreme in the hooded capes with strings — the dramatic, inhabitable shapes highlighted by a strong use of bold, hi-contrast colors — with quilting and prints fused in innovative ways in the kite surfing-inflected pieces.

Moncler 6 Noir Kei Ninomiya
Ninomiya’s pieces are tough, yet feminine — the result from the sum of small modules, multiplied and held together by miniature metal rings: an industrial-looking technique made possible by painstaking manual labor. The all-black collection also features chains, petals, and ultra-sound logos.

Moncler 7 Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara
Fujiwara tweaks plain items in subtle ways, hiding technical features, lightness, and packability behind a seemingly normal appearance. The selection of pieces revolves around the theme of the World Tour, drawing on both ideas of travel and music. Rain jackets, plaid blazers, parkas, field jackets and travel jackets are stamped with Fujiwara’s trademark slogans.

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