John Galliano’s vision for Maison Margiela is steadily evolving, and for spring, he treated fashion fans to the theatrics and complexity that they’ve grown to expect from him. First, the trimmings: fishnet, whip stitch, and buckles were unmissable motifs, with ribbon belts and puffed-up cords used to dazzling effect on trim little jackets and, memorably, across the bodices of shrunken-shaped evening dresses. Red carpet watchers, consider yourselves warned. Also, the merch—Galliano’s first look included an all-purpose white bag that could be misconstrued as basic, but thanks to a certain slouch factor, is anything but. This was the collection of a confident designer, full of fierceness and borderline fearlessness. But for those who just want a killer suit to wear to work, well, there’s an acid green number that will make the competition weep.