London Fashion Week may be over, but we’re still reeling from these amazing collections.
1. JW Anderson
“I was playing with a mixture of fabrics at the studio,” Jonathan Anderson explained of his Fall 2020 collection. “Some we have used before and some new and it came together in a sort of collage.” Surprisingly, “collage” is not the first thing that comes to mind when viewing the collection. What stands out most is Anderson’s attention to tailoring this season, creating voluminous yet structured silhouettes.
2. Christopher Kane
Once again, sex is at the forefront of Christopher Kane’s collection, but this season the designer took a more subtle approach, with lace and references to Adam and Eve. As for all those triangles — historically the shape symbolizes the “eye of a Supreme Being watching over the universe.” Now, it’s just a cool way to add interest to a dress.
3. Victoria Beckham
“This season I was thinking about the tension between refinement and rebellion,” Beckham explained in her show notes. “I was inspired by different ideas of women – different characters, different moments and different attitudes – but with no restrictions.”
Burberry’s latest collection was presented in front of a massive audience — 800 people — including Cate Blanchett, FKA Twigs, Lourdes Leon, Hunter Schafer, Naomi Campbell, Kristen McMenamy, Yolanda Hadid, and Lea T, just to name a few. Featuring a live performance from producer Arca and pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque, the show touched on Riccardo Tisci’s memories of his early days as a designer. As many major houses have started doing, Burberry made sure the show was a carbon neutral event by both reducing and offsetting emissions.
Robin Muir, curator of a new Cecil Beaton photography exhibit at the National Portrait Gallery, helped Erdem Moralıoğlu create his Fall 2020 collection. The exhibit, titled Bright Young Things, captures not only the society figures Beaton photographed, but also the artist’s own upward mobility middle to high class. It’s a fitting theme for Erdem, who has taken inspiration from the lives of peculiar society figures in the past.
6. Molly Goddard
Goddard is the queen of tulle, and she’s not about to let you forget it. This season the designer was inspired by the time her toddler self was a street-style star. Her look in the picture, which was printed in a Japanese magazine in the early ’90s, included a ruffled skirt and a big sweater — both of which would be at home on her runways today. Goddard also introduced menswear this season, which, while it certainly has a fun color palette, lacks the voluminous joy of her work in womenswear.
7. Richard Quinn
Holy bedazzling, Batman! Quinn’s shiny opening looks were attention-grabbing for their extravagance. While the level of appliqué wasn’t sustained throughout the collection (can you imagine?) he still wowed with bright, bold, and optimistic looks. There is a very good chance you’ll see many of the evening gowns on red carpets in months to come. And more than ever, it seems that Quinn might be a thematic successor to Christian Lacroix — and not just because he, too, seems to favor a bubble skirt.
8. Simone Rocha
Is Simone Rocha a goth designer? Not in the traditional sense. Like Goddard, she is known and celebrated for her ultra feminine aesthetic. She isn’t one to shy away from a big skirt, tulle, or lots of lace. But dark, somewhat spooky themes usually run through her collections. This season Rocha drew from Ireland’s Aran Islands, and the John Millington Synge play Riders to the Sea, in which a woman’s husband and five sons drown in the sea. Heavy.
9. Emilia Wickstead
While London Fashion Week is known for wilder looks (as evidenced above), Emilia Wickstead’s reserved elegance really stood out this season. The darker, almost subdue color palette of the first few looks really lets you focus on the tailoring and draping — all of which has a vintage feel. But over the course of the show patterns and vibrant colors (green, specifically) creep in to create a bold finale.
Chalayan has a history of pulling off theatrical and/or provocative shows. This season was no different: according to Vogue, the designer sang. Live. And apparently he was really good! Also good – his Fall 2020 collection. The clothes were dynamic, feeling fashion-forward yet completely wearable.