Jeremy Scott has given new meaning to “paper dreams.” A self-proclaimed patron of Barbie, Scott shifted his focus to her predecessor for Spring ’17: the paper doll. And though playfully cheeky, the collection’s larger statement on our technology-obsessed, 2-D world was not missed. And as he does so well, Scott’s interpretation was literal, with some models even wearing paper tabs. While the looks were physically flat, the trompe l’oeil detailing made the 2-D effect come to life: belts, buttons, beach towels, hats, beads, teddy bear trim (a nod to Franco Moschino’s famous teddy bear coat), fishnet hosiery, and the illusion of cleavage you’d find on those boardwalk tees all received the treatment. The effect appeared on everything from separates to evening wear (which looked lavish and full from the front, but from the back, were bare, in true paper-doll form).
Along with his runway offering, Scott launched a capsule collection that channels another kind of “doll,” the kind in Jacqueline Susann’s 1960s classic, Valley of the Dolls, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. The pill-printed tops and oversized pill bottle bag that he sent down the runway in his RTW collection served as a subtle promo; his end of show cameo, where he wore a track suit printed with “extended-release tablets” and “Moschino capsule,” a more obvious one. The “capsule collection with a powerful dose of capsules” includes a chain-strap bag, phone cases, T-shirts, and sweatshirts—the classic “Say no to drugs” slogan, replaced with “Just say Moschi-no.” Welcome to Mr. Scott’s doll house.