A new era at Diesel has arrived, as Y/Project’s Glenn Martens unveiled his premiere collection for the global brand today. The first designer to ever lead the label created in 1978 by Renzo Rosso, the Belgian designer showcased his vision for an “enlightened” Diesel customer: one who is keenly aware of the brand’s heritage, but with their eyes firmly fixed on the future too.
Via video call from Milan on Friday, the designer said he was feeling pretty chill, despite being mere days out from the hotly-anticipated unveiling. Martens spoke from his studio about his vision for this new chapter and his own relationship with the brand’s pioneering campaigns and identity. High up on his agenda of priorities is to fine tune the sustainably-minded and conscious changes he is going about enacting at the company.
The collection was presented today via a live streamed short film made in collaboration with the artist and director Frank Lebon and soundtracked by the British musician Leon Vynehall. The focus of the surreal, dream-like short is the perfect backdrop for Martens’ debut, which is at once approachable and grounded, yet innovative and fearless. (It’s important to note that his longtime collaborator and best friend from Y/Projects is now on hand at Diesel to lend her distinctive aesthetic to the brand too.)
With a focus on up-cycled fabrics and reused deadstock, there are no shortage of hits in this collection. Namely: ‘jeanboots’ for men and women, trompe l’oeil prints, bleached treatments, a reinterpreted logo, the integrated use of organza, five-pocket pants, and even denim panties (an infamous Y/Project signature!). Spring Summer ’22 also sees the introduction of DIESEL LIBRARY: a sustainable and permanent collection component that boasts genderless styles which will remain a baseline part of every collection year in, year out.
See some highlights of the collection below.