Whew. After everything from mud to feuds (ironically, one person was involved in both) and Cher to fabric in a can, Fashion Month has drawn to a close. While we’re still dissecting the news cycle, sifting through Instagram and TikTok, and zooming in on runway image details while we double down on coffee, the undoubtable trends of the moment have risen to the fore. Here’s what we can’t stop thinking about…
The Crystal Piece
One almost needed sunglasses the catwalks were so lit up with eye-catching sparkles all season long. Crystalized dresses, skirts, wide-leg trousers, and, in the case of Khaite, blazer lapels quite literally brightened up our outlook for Spring Summer ’23. Blame it on our need to capture everything on Instagram, but we can’t argue that a shimmering number sure makes for good content these days.
I see London, I see France, I see everyone’s underpants. Such will be the vibe come Spring Summer ’23, as we all throw caution to the wind and embrace sultry, sheer dresses that leave little to the imagination. Designers including Lanvin’s
Bruno Sialelli, Miuccia & Raf, Alberta Ferretti, and Mirror Palais’ Marcelo Gaia opted to go the transparent route on everything from maxis to trench coats. It makes sense, when you think about it, as there’s an undeniable sense of freedom, cheekiness, and sensuality about these pieces—and what more could we want after years of rigid rules, confinement, and bleakness. For a more modest approach to the moment, Tory Burch’s ’90s-style midi slip skirts with their and see-through tops will sure to be of many people’s wishlists.
While it might sound like what a TV presenter would shout on a retro gameshow before contestants are dunked in slime, we actually mean that hybrid of glam and grunge that’s been prevailing over the last decade. If you close your eyes and think about it, you can instantly conjure up images of this girl/guy: there are layers of body-clinging staples covered up with a boxy biker jacket, coat, or blazer. Those Y2K gas station shades seem to be omnipresent, as are spiked hardware and silver jewelry. Maybe the catsuit sleeves extend into gloves and the pants seem to be seamless with their platform boots. Maybe this person pals around with Julia Fox. This season, as usual, there was plenty for her/him/them at Rick Owens and Balenciaga (just watch for that Lay’s crisp bag purse to make the rounds), but also at LAPOINTE, Versace, and even Saint Laurent, where we reckon they’ll swipe right for slinky hooded pieces, rounded shoulder jackets, and high gloss finishes.
Skirting the Issue
Let’s talk skirts—which, I’ll say for once, seemed to be the focal points of most collections. Blame it on the viral Miu Miu mini skirts from last year, but skirts seemed to be given amble attention and reinvention this time around. While on paper they might not be the most practical, pannier-esque silhouettes (like the hoop skirts worn in the 17th & 18th centuries) won us over thanks to their treatment at Lanvin, Bach Mai, Monse, Loewe, and Dior. Pockets were played with at Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu, and elsewhere, calf-length denim, leather, and bubble hem skirts looked like they’ll be toppling the mini skirt down from its pedestal. Another trend to note: wearing your fanciest skirt with your plainest top! Now there’s one we can all try at home…
How we love a shimmy. Everything from skirts and dresses to tassel-edged tops seemed to go swish-swish this season, with particular effect at Proenza Schouler, PatBo, Jonathan Simkhai, Jil Sander, and Bottega Veneta. Sound on for full effect!
Snakeskin is slithering its way back into our watchlist, and we can definitely blame Khaite for that. Elsewhere, we noticed high octane animal-meets-metallic numbers that we’re christening Luxe Exotica. All eyes on you: guaranteed.
While fuchsia pink is here to stay and soothing soft biscuit-y hue did seem to reign supreme when it came to the chicest of the chic (see: Lanvin, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta et al), we did feel our heart skip a beat with all the serotonin-inducing shades of sunshine yellow, turquoise, lilac, and green. Particularly the latter, known to be a lucky color. Get it where you can, kids!
Well, why would the abounding obsession with all things Y2K stop anytime soon? Add to the mounting list cargo pants. With offerings in all shades and fabrics, you’ll be starring in your own at-home R N’ B music video before you know it.
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