Alexander McQueen Spring 2015

by Dena Silver

The latest Alexander McQueen collection mentioned Japan as a point of reference, but there was nary a kimono or Harajuku girl in sight. Instead, Sarah Burton wove cherry blossoms along with samurai and geisha references throughout the runway collection. The mood was very dark, with plenty of black python skins and heavy silks interspersed with hints of pale pink and the occasional dash of white. The cherry blossom dress, the bodice of which was covered in applique blossoms and finished off with a romantically tiered, ruffled skirt, was deceptively sweet. Two other dresses had the same effect. Skirts bustled with chiffon flowers and shiny florals strapped tightly to the torso. The suiting options were particularly strong, complete with sleeves slit up to the elbow, offering a cape-like feeling. And the pant for Spring was a slim flare, that started at the knee and hovered right above the floor.

As for the chaussures, gladiator sandals were tied around the leg, wrapping up just below the knee. With an inverted heel, these kicks are certainly not for the weak of heart. As for those glossy black face masks? They were created by makeup artist extraordinaire Pat McGrath, after Burton referenced a mask worn by Julia Nobis in a recent issue of Vogue Italia. Intense, intricately worked, and dark: signatures of all things McQueen.

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