Runway
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Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2015
Anthony Vaccarello‘s Fall collection was full of the designer’s signatures, like asymmetrical ultra-minis, navel-grazing deep-v’s, rock n’ roll chic, and plenty of black. This season he accented the aesthetic with star cut-outs, metal fringe, and big statement-making leather and Lucite belts. Who was perched front row? Donatella Versace made an appearance in Paris to support
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Giorgio Armani Fall 2015
With nearly 100 looks, Giorgio Armani had lots to explore for Fall. The main concept here was the simple pairing of pants and jackets. Slim trousers hit at mid-ankle, looser pants with pleats came in silver, navy, and a painterly print, and a few velvet and satin pairs were in the mix as well. The most cutting-edge style
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Missoni Fall 2015
Back to the ’80s, ladies! Missoni channeled the over-the-top era for Fall. It was like Jem and the Holograms came to life sans the hair, and with chicer clothing, of course. (Coincidentally, a real life version of the cartoon will be released in theaters this Fall with iconic ’80s stars like Molly Ringwald and Juliette Lewis.) There were
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DSquared2 Fall 2015
A military base mixed with a swashbuckler vibe, plus all sorts of splashy, flashy add-ons: Dean and Dan Caten‘s Fall collection offered structure (tricked-out officer-esque jackets, slim, button-bedecked army green trou, a slew of snazzy waistcoats) with very extensive embellishments. Prominent embroidery, plush fur stoles, and tribal-print B&W leggings and long-sleeved shirts mingled with equally busy fur- and
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Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2015
Prints galore! Massimiliano Giornetti delivered a vibrant collection with stellar graphic prints for Fall. The patterns mostly came in earthy tones of forest green, chestnut brown, mustard yellow, and a berry red. The focus was knitwear, with long slim turtleneck dresses and tops or a wrap dress with a must-have knotted leather belt, but the standout was the fur coat
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Emilio Pucci Fall 2015
It’s all but officially confirmed that Peter Dundas showed his last collection chez Pucci yesterday (to wit: he took his post-show bow with his entire team), and the Fall looks shown seemed to be a cheery way of marking the possible end of an era. There was the usual array of prints to decipher, but the dozen or so opening looks were
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Roberto Cavalli Fall 2015
It truly wouldn’t be a Cavalli show if there wasn’t a touch of animal print, a hint of sparkle, a smattering of studs, and quite a bit of sex appeal. But for Fall, Roberto Cavalli kept the tone romantic, and he was influenced by the theme of the forthcoming Met Gala, “China: Through The Looking
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Bottega Veneta Fall 2015
Instead of focusing on just one era, Tomas Maier decided to bring both the ‘60s and the ‘70s back on the Bottega Veneta runway. The clothes here aren’t stuck in the past; they just have the perfect hint of nostalgia for the bygone eras. And there’s no better interpretation of that than the prevalence of
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Jil Sander Fall 2015
Strong suiting was the name of the game at Jil Sander, although this collection was replete with far more color than is usually associated with the brand. The show started off with a long navy coat, layered over coordinating pants, but the yellow shoes hinted at the colorful pieces to follow. Like sweaters with pink
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Versace Fall 2015
Va va va Versace! Donatella Versace reflected quite a bit about the brand this season. The show was all about, well, Versace. The show had plenty of its usual sex appeal with high-slits, nearly crotch-high boots, deep-v’s, and extreme cut-outs. But this season, the brand’s Greek insignia was everywhere. Most vividly, it was the pattern for multi-colored skirts, jackets, and pants.
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Marco de Vincenzo Fall 2015
Marco de Vincenzo‘s collection was full of all of his tricky fabrications he’s become known for. There were woven knits only partially woven for a checkered effect, thin blue and brown lines sewn onto a grey wool coat, and denim done in multiple faded colors to look like patchwork. Velvet lime green stripes adorned a chiffon dress,
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Tod’s Fall 2015
Go West, young woman! Alessandra Facchinetti‘s collection for Tod’s this season had an undercurrent of Western inspiration, expressed via moccasin shoes, Native American patterns, and string piping that laced around collars, or an asymmetrical pattern on a grey wool skirt. There was even a Rodeo-inspired blue suede top with floral patterns at the shoulders. But the collection
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Giamba Fall 2015
Giambattista Valli‘s younger sister line, Giamba, has all of the flirty, feminine looks that chicettes around the globe lust over, injected with a dose of edginess for the well-to-do 20-something set. This season, Valli’s signature baby doll floral and lace mini dresses came adorned with S&M-esque harnesses. Perhaps all of the hype over Fifty Shades of Grey made
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Moschino Fall 2015
With each collection he creates chez Moschino, Jeremy Scott further proves he was born to helm this maison. And it certainly looks like he’s having a whole lot of fun while doing it. This time around, there were a ton of themes in his collection, with nods to the Looney Tunes, a colorful ode to the ‘80s, and plenty
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Blumarine Fall 2015
According to Blumarine’s Anna Molinari, pants are passé for Fall. Sending merely one or two trouser options down the runway in Milan today, the maison instead opted to focus on slouchy mohair sweaters and thigh-grazing jackets in lush furs. Enhancing the bare-legged look were bold patent leather booties, with pink soles that reflected in the mirrored catwalk, and
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Emporio Armani Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani‘s Fall collection for his Emporio Armani line, entitled “Crossing Colors,” involved lots of interestingly-cut black trou, large ruffles and bows, cool-hued tweeds and knits that opened the show, followed by a couple of bright fur-tinged pieces, fuzzy rouge knit dresses, and dark velvets. There’s plenty to pick from in the office-apropos department here, thanks to the collection’s array of jackets
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Prada Fall 2015
Bursts of color trotted down Prada’s runway this season in an array of fabrics, including techy foam and tweed, and hints of fur trimmed the ’60s silhouettes. As for the accessories? Gardening gloves came in ostrich skin, and flower pins adorned lapels. Plus, some dresses and coats had patterns that mimicked patio fencing. The ’60s suits that
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Fendi Fall 2015
Crisp all-white looks, sumptuous suedes and furs (plentiful furs, of course) in luscious shades of rust, rouge, and chocolate, and the kind of technical innovations with superluxe materials that the maison is known for: all were on tap in Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi‘s latest Fendi looks, which were inspired by Sophie Taeuber-Arp, a ’20s Swiss artist. Stay tuned for
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Max Mara Fall 2015
Marilyn Monroe was a chic point of reference for Max Mara this season. Specifically, the image of the buxom blonde icon lolling about on the beach in a chunky sweater, shot by George Barris in 1962, was the inspiration for Fall. That aesthetic was lifted directly from her look and adapted for the runway were messy bedhead
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No. 21 Fall 2015
A perennial editrix fave on the calendar, Alessandro Dell’Acqua put his midas touch on a number of gold foil pieces for Fall, including slim trousers and a chic jacket with shearling detail. Look 15 was a bit prim in pink, but the chiffon top with intricate pleating and intersecting seams was an artful display of Dell’Acqua’s skill, both
