How do you follow up a collection that included live-human backpacks? Rick Owens swung the pendulum in the other direction this season and toned things down. Still, there were giant fluffy puffer blankets worn as coats and capes and fuzzy mohair gowns, plus some models’ emphasized the cocoon notion by wearing their hair in a helmet-like net that covered their faces (yes, this is Rick retreating from the spotlight). Mastodons, global warming, the end of the world…all were apparently references for this show, but when you strip back the extras it was really about draping, a Rick Owens specialty.
The clothing was beautiful and will please the brand’s cult following, while perhaps gaining some new fans along the way. Draped off-white tunic dresses worn with futuristic over-the-knee leather sneaker boots looked fairly simple while still making a statement. Exquisite sea-green embroidery dripped down the shoulders of a long grey overcoat, and the cream jumpsuits that closed the show were particularly stellar. There were plenty of pieces that looked cozy enough to curl up in and hide from the world, but these clothes are, of course, meant to be seen and appreciated, which is why legends like Iris Apfel, Claude Montana, and Donna Karan were perched front row.