After a floaty and floral-heavy Spring Summer offering, Valentino has gone to the darkside for Fall. The perfect backdrop for the dramatic turn? Inside the Piccolo Teatro di Milano, which shuttered its doors immediately after the pandemic gripped Italy this time last year. Staging his latest collection there, in the closed and quiet setting, proved to be a ‘radical gesture’—and one that inspired Piccioli for the entire ethos of the garments on display too.
Piccioli called his audience-less show a “punk” move, and this mentality came through in the overall spirit from head to studded toe. Gone are those aforementioned pretty pastel-hued frocks and in their place comes a pared-back palette of predominantly black and white separates that were free of frills and fuss. Alas, one thing we were glad to see a return of: the impossibly-high platforms that permeated his most recent Haute Couture collection. After all, they have already made their way to the red carpet, thanks to Cynthia Erivo at Sunday night’s Golden Globes.
The juxtaposition of those dizzying heels with micro mini hemlines and big, masculine coats was not for the faint hearted, but then again, isn’t that what it means to take the punk route in life? But if it involves these cape-style coverups, daring NSFW sheer gowns, and larger than life shirt collars worn insouciantly and with attitude—then hand us our Valentino Rockstud clutch ASAP, because we’re right behind Piccioli with this one.
See the full collection—and take a look at the new must-have accessories—below:
a look at the must-have accessories—below: