Olivier Theyskens’ return to fashion this season after a hiatus post-Theory was a collection of quiet straightforward elegance. These are clothes for a woman who wants to exude elegance without screaming. Most of the 25-piece collection was black, grey, or white, save for one easy silk cherry-red dress. There were suit jackets with short skirts, which depending on the business, could pass for work attire while doubling as evening wear. A chic grey trench was worn over a pair of thigh-high leather boots and a white bustier worn with silk dress pants looked like another sleek versatile evening option. That doesn’t mean there weren’t statement-makers—a tartan coat dress with a zigzag pattern, a sexy black mini with Theyskens’ signature hook and eye fastenings, and a flouncy white swing skirt worn with a cinch-waist shiny croc jacket had high impact. And we fully expect to see the strapless black gown with lace details and a train to be on request for the upcoming red carpet season. Welcome back, Olivier.