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Moschino Gets Arty
Jeremy Scott loves a good theme and this season for Moschino is was an arty one: the work of Picasso. Models emerged from under a giant gilded frame in looks inspired by Cubism, full of direct references to some of Picasso’s most famous paintings, including Girl Before a Mirror and Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.
The collection also merged themes Scott has worked for Moschino in the past. Specifically, the flatness and trompe l’oeil details used in his Spring ’17 paper doll-themed show, and last year’s work-in-progress collection. But in that regard, it’s almost as if his work on those collections have been building to this — a playful Cubist romp from a designer who has been hugely successful at augmenting perspective and how objects are perceived.
Louis Vuitton Launches an Entertainment Platform on YouTube
The devil works hard, but Derek Blasberg is working even harder. Since he took on the role as head of fashion and beauty partnerships at YouTube in 2018, several fashion industry heavy-hitters have bulked up their presence on the site. The latest is Louis Vuitton, which is launching LVTV. LVTV will stream different series of content, developing episodes around five major categories; savoir-faire, institutional, friends of the House, travel, and campaigns.
Ganni Is Launching a Rental Service (Harper’s Bazaar UK)
Ganni Repeat will allow fans of the brand to rent pieces from one to three weeks at a time. “We’re on a mission to become circular and increase the lifecycle of our clothes wherever we can,” it said on Instagram. At the moment the service is being tested in Denmark. Should all go well, it will roll out internationally. It’s unclear if Blasberg had any direct influence on this happening. But given all the models and designers that have joined under his short tenure, it’s easy to see how he’s made Youtube more appealing to the fashion crowd.
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No.21 Goes Co-Ed For the First Time
Micro-florals and androgyny made for an optimistic runway at No.21. “I wanted to do a co-ed show with the women’s and men’s collections because I care about giving a narrative unity to my idea of fashion,” says Alessandro Dell’Acqua, creative director of No.21. “Fashion is a unique and global concept and that only a person who wears the clothes expressing it is able to personalize it, namely accord it a gender identity and transfer to it a distinct personality: her or his own… That’s why the initial inspiration behind this collection is a sense of eroticism that cuts loose from exclusively sexual expressions and becomes a means for speaking through the body.”
“That’s also why I designed the same clothes for women and men, without falling into the no-gender trap, yet having the two genders — female and male — meet in a continual intersection of references re lines, volumes and fabrics,” he continues. “This also affords me the chance to express a disruptive viewpoint: one contrary to the conformism and moralism that in current years have been imposing too many rules on people’s lives and therefore on fashion as well.”
Daniel Lee’s New Bottega Veneta
Daniel Lee came in to his creative director role at Bottega Veneta with a lot of good will — he was, after all, part of Phoebe Philo’s team at Celine. Critics and shoppers certainly seem excited about his vision for the brand. But he still seems to be in the process of establishing specific codes for his version of Bottega that don’t harken back to his old gig. That said, there is still a huge clamoring for pieces to fill the void left by Philo’s departure from Celine. If anyone can generate the same aesthetic director, and more importantly the same powerful feeling, Lee is certainly in the best position to do so.
His talents especially shone through (no pun intended) with two glittering dresses. It would be really interesting to see his take on flashier clothing. If his time at Celine serviced the working, philosophical woman, his time at Bottega could build out her world a bit more. What does she wear on a night on the town?