“Among all colors, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black, it has all the same qualities,” Christian Dior once said. Maria Grazia Chiuri took that notion to heart this season, incorporating shades of blue into everything from her sheer sparkled bustier gowns to denim blue-collar worker’s wear, like a low-slung pair of carpenter jeans with a matching blue work shirt and a thick-strapped cross-body bag. Each look was topped off with a militant leather ’70s beret.
The contrast of seeing workwear overalls on the Dior runway with some of Chiuri’s romantic, dreamlike tulle numbers, like a frothy dégradé skirt with a slouchy navy sweater or a tulle ballerina-style skirt topped off with a denim nipped-waist military jacket, was surprising but the message was clear. Chiuri was one of the first to put a feminist T-shirt on the runway last year for her Dior debut for Spring 2017, so it’s no secret that feminism has been at the heart of her message from the start. This season was no different, with Dior’s dreamy princesses getting down to work in true bad girl—RiRi included—fashion. The pop star was perched front row already sporting a leather Dior beret. The world may be feel melancholy and cold at the moment, but Chiuri and her army of femme fatales are just getting warmed up.