Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux’s sophisticated sophomore debut was a study on the shoulder. Though we’ve seen enough off-the-shoulder looks to last a lifetime, the design duo’s translation of the pervasive trend into coats felt completely new and desirable. Furs came folded over and around the shoulders, and over ribbed knits or severe white collared shirts. Even a bomber jacket and oversized white coat got the off-the-shoulder treatment. Of course, it wasn’t just the coat that got the cold shoulder—there were plenty of dresses too—but the outerwear is what will ultimately set Dior’s clients apart from the sea of bare shoulders in seasons to come.
Dior’s color palette of fiery orange red, lavender, lime green, and hot pink now feels part of the brand’s DNA thanks to Raf Simons. A bright red puffy sleeved] top paired with a pale blue and grass green checked skirt popped against Marjan Jonkman’s platinum locks, as did the finale look’s cherry-red swing coat. Some silhouettes looked distinctly Raf-ian, which is a good thing. Meier and Ruffieux are carrying on a great legacy while forging their own path with new ideas. Bravo!