Stefano Tonchi’s Next Act, Chanel’s $20 Billion Win, Plus! What’s Up With The Vampire’s Wife & AZ Factory?

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by Aaron Royce

Harper’s Bazaar Italia names Stefano Tonchi as new editorial director

Ciao, bello! Stefano Tonchi is returning to fashion with a new role as Harper’s Bazaar Italia‘s editorial director, according to sources. Tonchi will now oversee the publication’s print magazine, events, and video and photography strategies. Currently, the longtime editor is the founder and editorial director of Palm Beach-based brand Palmer, and was most recently the contributing global chief creative officer at the L’Officiel group. Previously, Tonchi served as editor-in-chief of W magazine, editor-in-chief of T: The New York Times Style Magazine, and fashion director of Esquire.

Stefano Tonchi

Stefano Tonchi (BFA)

Chanel hits nearly $20 billion in annual sales—and looks ahead to Tribeca

Chanel-o! Chanel’s revenue rose by 16% in 2023 to ultimately amount to just shy of $20 billion—$19.7 billion, in fact—in annual sales, according to The Business of Fashion. The French fashion brand’s financial growth was primarily owed to its fashion, fragrance, and jewelry categories—which are also centric to its reopened Hamptons store at 26 Newton Lane. However, these are just the latest items on Chanel’s calendar; the label is also preparing for a busy summer, kicking off with its Through Her Lens program’s return to the Tribeca Film Festival. And speaking of Tribeca: Chanel has just shared the artists who will be selected for the festival’s Artist Awards Program, its 19-year-long partnership where artists gift original works to the event’s winners. This year’s creative crew, curated by Racquel Chevremont, includes Deborah Kass, Erick & Elliot Jiménez,  Glenn Ligon, Jenny Holzer, Joiri Minaya, José Parlá, Juliana Huxtable, Maia Cruz Palileo, Paul Anthony Smith, and Tourmaline. All artists’ works will be shown in the Tribeca Festival Hub at Spring Studios during the Festival, which runs from June 5-16.

Chanel

Chanel Spring Summer ’23Chanel Spring Summer ’23

The Vampire’s Wife closes business as Susie Cave departs

Susie Cave, founder of romantic, gothic fashion brand The Vampire’s Wife, is closing the label after a decade at its helm due to wholesale market changes. Cave took to Instagram to share the news, thanking her family and fans for their support. Meanwhile, the brand’s website revealed that it will hold a final in-person sale of clothing and merchandise at the Music Room in London from May 24-26. Previously, Cave founded The Vampire’s Wife in 2014, leading it to success with celebrity fans including Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Rachel Weisz, and even the British royal family’s Princess Kate and Princess Beatrice. The label also launched hit collaborations with brands including H&M, Current/Elliott, and Alice Babidge.

“After ten years as The Creative Director of The Vampire’s Wife, it is time for me to say goodbye,” said Cave. “I say this with great sadness and want to express my undying gratitude to you all for your support. I wish to thank my extended family at The Vampire’s Wife who helped me create such beautiful things. I cannot describe how much you have all meant to me. I love you all, Susie x.”

Michael Kors kicks off summer with Club Kors at Miami’s Joia Beach 

Sunny days are here for Michael Kors, who’s touching down in Miami with a new Club Kors event at Joia Beach. From May 22-27, Club Kors features a space complete with Kors’ Diamond monogram-printed lounge towels, umbrellas, and beach towels perfect for catching rays. Wares at the brand’s pop-up beach shop also include a collaboration with Funboy floats, as well as an edit of new Kors summer pieces like sunglasses, handbags, bikinis, and more fashion and accessories. You can reserve a spot at Club Kors in Miami—the first of its international stops this summer—on Joia Beach’s website. The occasion notably comes as Miami Swim Week kicks off in the beach city from May 29 to June 5, promising more days filled with fun in the sun.

 

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A post shared by Michael Kors (@michaelkors)

AZ Factory will cease collection launches with a rebrand as AZ Academy

AZ Factory is undergoing a wave of changes. Now known as AZ Academy, the colorful fashion label founded by the late Alber Elbaz will stop releasing seasonal collaborative collections. Instead, the Academy will continue supporting independent and emerging designers through a post-graduate program, according to sources. Previously, AZ Factory was launched by Elbaz in 2021. Following Elbaz’s death that year, the brand has continued its business through collaborative releases with Jenny Hytönen, by Them, Lutz Huelle, Colville, Tennessy Thoreson, Ester Manas, and Thebe Magugu.

Models in AZ Factory dresses (courtesy)

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