Marc Jacobs shows how he “makes his marc” in a range of dramatic and haunting portraits featuring all Marc Jacobs clothing and accessories–obviously–in the September issue of Harper’s BAZAAR. In a corresponding interview with author Tama Janowitz, who’s often referenced as one of the main “brat pack” authors, the designer dishes on his ’80s heyday in New York (that’s a flashback Friday for you!), his collaboration with the artist Tabboo!, how he’s survived three decades in the business, and, why he’s enjoying time alone these days. Check out highlights from the piece below and click here to read the article in full.
On his inspiration for dreaming up his collections:
“It’s all about creative choice. Making sketches, fittings, collaging—however it happens to get to the end result. Sometimes the design team inspires me and brings in things they’re interest in. I think, Oh, I’d like to use this. Other times I don’t know what I want. It’s a magpie aesthetic: If something is hideous, that’s interesting. It’s kind of the same sensibility that Andy Warhol had. He was interested in everything and soaked up what he saw like a sponge.”
On the switch from his colorful Spring collection to the Victorian-goth vibe of his Fall 2016 collection:
“When I finished the Spring show…for the next one I said, ‘Let’s start with the same look, only take all color out of it and make it a gothic version of the spring show, just to be contrary.’ So we started with the first look, took all color out of it, and changed proportions. But the print I had developed for spring, I didn’t want to change it to gray. I wanted to work with someone to create an image for print and patterns. I was looking at a painting by [artist and ‘80s drag performer] Tabboo! on Instagram and said, ‘Oh, let’s get in touch with him and see if he wants to do something with us.’”
On his collaboration with Tabboo!:
“I showed him things that interested me. Gothic but not really, dark but not really. Tabboo! painted a crow, a black cat—sweet versions of dark icons. Each day he’d come in and I’d say, ‘That’s really great, but I was thinking about this cape with swirls and jet beading.’ It all felt like a continuation of spring and a nostalgia for New York City, and I didn’t want to abandon that. It had the spirit I want to see in all my collections – people I know and classic things I love.”
On drawing inspiration from the city, even if he doesn’t go out anymore:
“Years ago I couldn’t imagine staying in. There was a time when it felt exciting to go out and see people, but I don’t feel like what’s out there is what there used to be… I quite like being alone. I am around people I love to be with all day; I’m not lonely. The simplest, happiest pleasure is being on my couch with my dog, Neville. Nothing is more comforting or soothing. I have a wonderful boyfriend—he has a dog too! I feel safe, happy, surrounded by beauty.”
