Louis Vuitton Spring 2016

It was vintage Ghesquière—and by that, we mean a designer governed by what’s new, what’s next, what’s novel. For Spring, he looked back to the future, paying less attention to Vuitton’s codes in favor of fresh ideas to propel the brand forward. The show began with a punked out pink leather moto jacket, one of the many outerwear options on offer, and sci-fi and technological influences abounded. It could have been a Balenciaga show, save for the Monogram and Daimer prints that appeared on tricked-out jackets. But beneath the slickness, there was a certain boho vibe, in patchwork silk pants, peasant tops and dresses, and open-weave knits. On the accessories front, the thick-strapped flatform was the major idea; same goes for micro bags (loved the duffel and box versions). And lest you intend to slide into fall with a bowl or two of soupe à l’oignon gratinée, a gentle reminder that your abs will be on display yet again in 2016—Ghesquière’s ultra-cropped swingy tops in luxe fabrications like perforated leather are destined to be essentials.