The bustling post-show backstage area at Longchamp suddenly came to a halt, then burst into a chorus of Happy Birthday for Sophie Delafontaine. The designer was clearly surprised when she was met with a torte, decorated with an enormous birthday candle. Kendall Jenner — who sat front row with Kate Moss just moments before — was there to give her a celebratory hug. It was a sweet moment that blended the celebration of finishing weeks worth of work with the celebration of one’s self. But what went down on the runway?
This season Delafontaine blended an eclectic mix of influences: rock and roll, urban women, and travel. Another descriptor she could have added was “composure.” For all its inspirations, textures (fur, leather, lace), and personality (short skirts, pussy bow blouses, platform boots) the season is for the woman who is always put together.
Debuting this season was a new take on Longchamp’s logo, simply “LPG.” The bold block font, and perhaps its unfamiliarity among fans, helped avoid a sense of logomania when splashed in a pattern over some of the pieces. Also new? A miniature version of the house’s seminal Le Pliage bag.
The Daily caught up with the designer after the show to find out about her rock-and-roll preferences, and why platforms are the best of both worlds.
What made you want to do big platform boots this season?
I like heels. I think they’re really nice, feminine, cool, elegant. But I don’t want to suffer! So I think the platform has the best compromise. You have the heel but you don’t suffer. It looks very feminine, very sexy, but at the same time a very self-confident woman.
I noticed that rock-and-roll was one of your themes. What era?
It’s really the beginning of the ‘80s. It’s also maybe coming from the ‘70s which is more about fluidity and rawness. I think the ‘80s are a little bit more architectural, and I wanted to give a little bit of structure to the collection, because I am working for the urban woman. The ‘80s are very graphic, urban also.
Any ‘80s bands you love?
My first concert was The Cure!
This was your second show in New York. What do you love about showing here?
It’s great energy. Great vibes. It’s a very dynamic city, very active city. Also as a Parisian brand I think it’s nice to show that we are open to the world, that we are an international company. I like the idea of not staying at home, but to cross the sea.
This is the first season you’ve made Le Pliage in a smaller size. Why did you want to downsize such an iconic bag?
Now all bags are becoming smaller and smaller. You just need to have your phone. I think it looks really cute…with this little shape it fits just the necessary, but in a very cool way.
The runway carpet was inspired by interior designer Andrée Putman’s carpet for the Concorde airplane — how would you describe your personal interior space? How have you decorated your home?
It’s a mix of a lot of things. It’s a mix of vintage and old furniture — sometimes that are coming from my family and that I like to keep — but also mixing with very contemporary and modern things. I have a house with a garden, so it’s very light. It’s very pure.
What’s your favorite piece from this collection?
I think the logo is a very strong item. As on the bag or on the clothes I think it gives a very strongness to the silhouette.
See the rest of the collection below.