Joseph Altuzarra with Josephine Le Tutour and Alexandra Elizabeth
One of the most-discussed designers at NYFW, Joseph Altuzarra gets buzzier by the season. It’s been years since we’ve sat down with the perpetual “It” boy, so we stopped by his Soho digs for a catch-up to talk Anna, married life, and how he’s taking his brand to the next level.
What’s the story behind your rebranding?
It’s a work in progress that happened due to the partnership with Kering. We changed the logo and most of the visual assets—the invitations, the look book.
Was it challenging to pick a new logo?
It was sort of easy. When it’s right, you don’t feel much anxiety, and I work with someone really talented, Thomas Lenthal, who works for a lot of other brands, too. He’s incredibly smart and thoughtful, so it’s an easy relationship.
Do you prefer to design Fall or Spring?
I used to prefer designing Fall—I think most designers would say they prefer designing that season, because you get to play with more layers. But more and more, I’ve come to enjoy designing Spring, because it’s very undone, open, breezy, and easy.
What’s your pre-show mentality?
I’m definitely nervous, but I’m pretty calm overall. I internalize a lot of my stress. I try to relax by walking home from work and listening to music. It calms me down. I have a really great support system at home, so I feel pretty lucky.
What makes you feel successful?
The people backstage after the show. You can feel if there’s a lot of enthusiasm, or if the enthusiasm is restrained.
How much does that matter?
It probably matters a little too much, to be honest. I’m probably oversensitive to it, but it passes. Our show is so early in the season that it also takes editors and buyers a little bit of time to digest a season as a whole and put our show in context. When they’ve come back from Europe, they’ve had the opportunity to see everything, and to have really loved it.
Do you follow what everyone else is doing during Fashion Week?
Not so much! Definitely not before my show. I’ll look at my friends’ shows afterward, though.
You’re a notorious film buff. What are your all-time favorites?
Some of them are really cliché or trite. I had this whole Chinese film period—I loved all of the Wong Kar-wai films, obviously In the Mood for Love. I also really loved The Earrings of Madame De, which is a Max Ophüls movie that I’ve watched a lot. I just saw The Eyes of Laura Mars—my God, it was amazing. Super camp. I love film because I love narrative. It’s a little harder for me to be inspired by just a pure piece of art—I need a story to take me somewhere. I’ve definitely watched Flashdance a hundred times.
You have an eye for models.
I like models who look, to a certain extent, like someone you would see on the street. I don’t think I’m as responsive to otherworldly physical looks. Although, you know, it can happen. I’m more attracted to models who have something that feels very familiar.
You and Alexander Wang are famously friendly.
We’re very, very close. He’s one of my best friends. Alex is one of the few people who I’m friends with who knows exactly what I go through, and vice versa. Even though we don’t really talk about work, we understand each other very well, and we have very similar experiences. He’s also just a super funny, really nice guy.
You and Carine Roitfeld are very tight.
Carine and I met when I was working at Givenchy. She was always really nice to me, even though I was Riccardo’s assistant. When I started the company, she was really supportive. She wasn’t the only one, but she’s been a huge agent in allowing me to be where I am today. She has an incredible curiosity, and is also very blunt and doesn’t sugarcoat things. She has a childlike playfulness about this whole industry, and about fashion in general.
Anna Wintour has also been a major supporter.
She’s been amazing. My entire generation of designers has a lot to thank Anna for, because of how she’s championed younger designers. What’s so wonderful about Anna is that beyond helping you with your business and being a great adviser and mentor, she deeply cares about designers as individuals, and that’s really fostered a sense of community, especially in New York.
You also work with the CFDA closely.
I’ve benefited so much from the CFDA, especially having started the company during the recession. The support that I got from the CFDA and mentorship and help was necessary and surprising. [Mentor] Michael Kors is one of the nicest and most helpful people. I feel like it’s my responsibility in a lot of ways to keep that going and to help younger designers.
Do you still feel like the new kid on the block?
We’re in our teenage years now. There is a younger generation of children!
Any desire to work on a French brand eventually as creative director?
I’m very committed to the company, and I think it has a tremendous amount of potential, if I do say so myself. Especially since partnering with Kering, Altuzarra is squarely my focus. But, that being said, I’m always very open to new opportunities.
When did you start working on Spring?
In March. It’s great to be able to design the collection in the weather that you’re designing for.
Does it affect the way you design?
Definitely! Women are shopping very differently—they used to go to the store in February and buy all their clothes for the summer. Some women still do that, but many want to buy something now, and wear it immediately.
You launched handbags for Fall. How are they doing?
They’re doing incredibly well, so we’re really thrilled. We wanted it to feel different from what was on the market, and the feedback that we’ve been given is that they are. There’s a lot of handwork and braiding. Designing them was a huge learning experience. The main difference between bags and clothes is that you really have to think about the function of the bag, because there’s not a lot that you can do after you sample it. Having them out in the world is immensely stressful!
What’s next?
The company as a whole is growing quite fast, and we’re focused on expanding into new categories, not just clothes and bags. I’m very interested in shoes, but as a business, we are very focused on establishing ready-to-wear.
Did you read any great books this summer?
I was in the Hamptons a lot. I read All the Light We Cannot See, which I didn’t love. I reread The Hours, which I loved as much as the first time. I’m currently reading A Little Life, which I guess everyone is reading. Have you read it?
Not yet. Next month, you’ll celebrate your first wedding anniversary. How’s married life?
Honestly, it’s been sort of the same, but in a good way!
