Chef Danny Bowien On Fatherhood And Sneaker Design Dreams

by The Daily Front Row

Last week, Bon Appetit hosted a slew of chic foodies in their envy-inducing BA Kitchen at Condé for a delicious installment of the mag’s BA Night Kitchen series, starring Paris culinary power couple, Inaki Aizpitarte of Le Chateaubriand and Chez Aline’s Delphine Zampetti. Aizpitarte was interviewed by BA’s exec editor, Christine Muhlke, for the mag’s April issue. The family-style buffet supper included octopus and fennel salad, squid braised in its own ink, a custardy Spanish tortilla, and much more (check out the full spread here). “He came all the way from Paris for this!” said Bon Appetit editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport of Aizpitarte during his toast, before thanking a slew of folks for making the delicious eve happen—including Rapoport’s wife, Simone Shubuck, who whipped up the gorge flower arrangements, and Mission Cantina chef Danny Bowien for doing bartender duty, thanks to his beet-infused Mexican 75 concoction. While Bowien was deeply entrenched in whipping up libations, we chatted with Bowien about being a new dad, getting into veggies, and dreams of designing Air Jordans one day….

What’s new, Danny?
I made cocktails! I usually don’t do that. I’ve decided I’m a mixologist now. [Laughs] Just kidding.  I had a kid a few weeks ago.

Congrats! How’s fatherhood treating you?
It’s awesome. It’s crazy busy. As a chef you don’t sleep a ton already, though.

Will you be concocting unique baby foods?
Probably! A lot of things will go into a Vita Processor and get pureed.

Like a burrito from Mission Cantina, perhaps?
Eww, that’s gross! Maybe…I’m thinking more about vegetables. I’m eating a more vegetable-based diet recently, and I feel better.

For any particular reason?
Well, I opened a taqueria, so it’s all just meat and tortillas, all the time. Also, as a cook, you’re in the kitchen all the time just eating the worst stuff. If you make a stock, for instance, we usually take the ends of the meat, put it in the tacos and eat it.

Sounds tasty! Let’s discuss your eclectic style sensibilities.
I just cook in what I wear! Right now I’m wearing a vintage Marilyn Manson T shirt.

Why is it turned inside out?
I dunno! It’s black, so I thought it looked more formal. I figured I’d dress up. I’m wearing a shirt by Raf Simons underneath—he’s one of my favorite designers. I like Jil Sander a lot, too. I really like clean, simple stuff. I’m not 22 anymore!

Where do you shop?
I go to Opening Ceremony a lot, and I shop at a place near my apartment called Creatures of Comfort. I like to mix things up; I’d rather not look like I bought everything in the same place.

Have you ever been approached to do a capsule collection or design collab?
No. But my dream collaboration would be to do my own Air Jordans. Drake has a Jordans deal right now.

So why not Danny?
Yeah! Because we’re totally in the same tax bracket… [Laughs] 

So why did you moonlight as the mixologist for this Bon Appetit din?
I only did it to weasel my way into hanging out with Inaki. He’s one of my great friends, and he’s a chef I’ve admired for so long. He’s my favorite chef. Seriously! Five or six years ago, when I first heard of Inaki, I had to go to his restaurants. When I first met him, I probably scared him away for awhile.

Has he eaten at your restos?
When I opened Mission Chinese in New York, he came there. That was amazing. He just came to Mission Cantina a few days ago.

Do you and Inaki swap cooking tips?
There’s nothing I can teach him! I showed him how to teach our masa and tortillas the other day, though. It’s amazing to see the way he does stuff—he hadn’t cooked up until eight years ago. His perspective on food is really cool.

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