Calvin in excess! Francisco Costa presented a divine collection this season, which stayed true to the brand’s DNA while incorporating new patterns and fabrics to stunning effect. There were Prince of Wales and plaid patterns on jackets and coats that were flung over black leather, making those classic materials feel completely new again. Costa always presents extremely covetable leather pieces and this season the standouts were the black leather dress with button details along the sleeves and a fur-trimmed leather scarf that looked like a vest when belted.
Speaking of the belts! That accessory came oversized and wrapped around at the waist with the buckle hanging mid-calf. Belts rarely get to “it” status, but surely these have claimed that uncharted territory. Other waist accents included a Geode series—the sliced stones were suspended in cut-out circles around the midriff in dresses with patterns ranging from skunk and coyote to lynx. Who ever thought looking like a skunk could be so desirable? When Costa loosens the reins, his ability to turn out rock-solid collections knows no bounds.