Ulla Johnson Is Looking Towards The Light This Fall

They say the darkest hour comes before the dawn—but at Ulla Johnson‘s Fall 2025 show during New York Fashion Week, daylight was breaking. As the sun lifted through the windows at 555 Greenwich Street, guests including Morgan Spector and Rebecca Hall, Danielle Deadwyler, and Laura Brown were abuzz, bringing an energetic start to the morning. That same optimism was central to Johnson’s shimmering collection, which preceded down a gilded runway punctuated by Julie Hamisky’s massive shining poppy sculpture, La Géante.

While rooted in her signature bohemian elegance, Johnson’s latest designs were also imbued with hope and the desire to celebrate beauty amidst dark circumstances. Metallic gold trailed down skirt hems, shimmered in tweed separates, and gleamed in allover patterns, akin to sunlight peeking through overcast skies. Silky midi and maxi dresses were elevated by pleated tiers, paisley prints, and subtle geometric patterns—as well as delicate three-dimensional trims that nodded to unfurling flowers. Textured sweaters, flounced dresses, and sheer blouses also provided bursts of color, from rich purples, maroon, and scarlet to earthy green and golden yellow tones.

Ulla Johnson

As moving forward was pivotal to the collection, Johnson also provided pieces to protect and make statements in just about any environment—especially for women on the go. Dark blue denim jeans and jackets, single-toned skirts, and chic ombré coats were intermingled with longer iterations covered in shaggy shearling and blurred watercolor prints—which could smoothly make a statement, whether arriving to the office or hitting the town. Equally enchanting touches came from tasseled leather shoulder bags, versatile suede totes, embossed boots, and an assortment of stud-trimmed and bejeweled kitten heels, delivering a dynamic edge through bursts of texture and glamour.

After a turbulent fall that included the fashion industry’s latest creative director shuffling, Johnson’s lineup was a soothing palette cleanser bursting with a message: challenging times call for us to gather out inner strength and move forward. If the immediate cheers and applause throughout the finale were any indication, her Fall collection proved there’s power in taking on the day in pieces that both comfort and empower with color, feel, and a little sparkle wherever you roam.

Below, take a closer glimpse at Johnson’s gilded Fall 2025 collection.

All images: Courtesy of Ulla Johnson

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