Propersuit Co-Founder McGregor Madden On Finding The Perfect Fit

by Dena Silver November 25, 2014

written by Dena Silver November 25, 2014

McGregor Madden and Max Andreae

Hey boys, are you paying attention? ‘Cause we’ve got some important intel for you! Last week Propersuit, the custom suit label for hommes, threw a fitting party at their Gramercy studio. The space, which was filled to the brim with dudes in smart suits, is where the company sizes up their clientele for wares that can be totally customized from fabric texture to thread color. Also on hand was Brandon Franklin, of B.M. Franklin & Co., a bespoke hat label that perfectly compliments the Propersuit aesthetic. At the party, we snagged a moment with the suit label’s co-founder, McGregor Madden, to figure out why there’s so much hoopla behind a custom suit and what sets their brand apart from all others…

What’s the most vital detail we should look for in a suit?
Besides fabric and style design, we like to pay close attention to two fit details. The first is shoulders; they need to fall and run flesh with the drop of the shoulder to arm. Trends are moving more and more towards an unstructured or soft shoulder, but none of it matters if they don’t fall correctly. The second is button stance. We always strive to have the button closure at the narrowest portion of the torso. This creates a really handsome silhouette without having that forced slim fit, where the jacket is tight and uncomfortable and the lapel looks wonky.

Why does Propersuit emphasize doing all fittings in person, as opposed to digitally?

Doing a digital fitting or having a third party measure you is an absolute fool’s errand. It doesn’t work because there are too many ways to screw it up and not everyone is on the same page. The 3-D body scanner is also a gimmick. Maybe one day that will work, but it doesn’t right now. The custom suit business is really personal, so we make a point to hire people with serious design knowledge and a strong fashion pedigree.

What sets your label apart from other made-to-measure labels?
We make a point to hire fit specialists who really care about what they do. It sounds totally cliché, but it really matters in this business. We make certain we deliver to our client’s demands every time, so we have the manufacturing and quality to back it up.

Which suits tend to be the biggest hits with the ladies?

Girls want to see a sharply dressed man, period. No girl wants to see your Achilles heel or socks with the high-water Pee Wee Herman-style pant. They also don’t want to see a roomy or boxy suit. It’s not about the suit, but rather the personality of the man wearing it. Make sure to have a suit that’s comfortable, proportional and smart.

And would you ever do bespoke womens suits?

Yes. And we will!

Your suits are super detail-oriented. What are some hidden features in the suits?

Our clients love picking out the trims, which includes liners, interior piping, and top-stitch interior color. We also put do monogramming free of charge under the collar. It’s a cool little detail.

When it comes to accessories, which is more important: the tie or the sock?

I’m not exactly sure when or how socks became a thing, so I’d definitely pick a tie. A wild sock to me screams desperation. Also they are an absolute pain to keep in order. I will never buy a pair of wild socks because I’m afraid I’ll lose one and then be the guy with mismatched socks!

What’s a dream suit you’d like to make one day?
The one I will wear to my wedding!