Jil Sander Spring 2015

by Dena Silver

Jil Sander’s recently appointed creative director, Rodolfo Paglialunga, made a striking debut six or so months after beginning the job, with a deliciously minimalist collection, brimming with tomboy-apropos pieces. This seemed to be the parfait destination for him, as he combined aesthetics from his past gigs at Prada and Vionnet to serve up a collection that was so much more than met the eye. While there was every basic separate under the sun, like polos, turtlenecks, tanks, sweater vests, pencil skirts, culottes and trousers, the astute attention to detail kept the looks feeling fresh and modern. For example, the button down shirt and pencil skirt combo was upgraded with a B&W abstract T-shirt layered on top, the random stripes of which bled into the skirt. A B&W dress kept the eye intrigued with an asymmetric hem and a diagonal black stripe across the front. While the pieces were expertly tailored and sharp, there was a glorious disheveled feel to the styling. Shirtsleeves carelessly rolled up to the elbow, skewed waistlines, and a wrap skirt that seemed to be a simple piece of leather topped off with a belt. In regards to shoes, the socks-and-sandals combination was spiffed up thanks to leather socks and sturdy, architectural heels. Jil may have left her eponymous label (perhaps for good this time), but Paglialunga proudly marks his arrival with this Spring showing.

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