With its Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Embroidery of Disruption,” Pas Une Marque continues to evolve its “Not a Brand” philosophy by pushing the boundaries of luxury streetwear through a fusion of craftsmanship, concept, and quiet defiance.
As a follow-up to the French label’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, “Seams of Dissent,” this new chapter reframes embroidery, traditionally a symbol of care and precision, as a subtle yet powerful act of
rebellion. Raw hems, loose threads, and introspective graphics encourage wearers to sit with discomfort, question what’s familiar, and embrace the beauty of what’s unfinished.
Blending time-honored techniques with contemporary motifs, the collection transforms embroidery into a language of nuance. From intricately stitched button-downs to oversized tees, each piece encourages a more reflective take on disruption that is less about volume, and more about meaning.
We spoke with founder Sean Coutts to dig deeper into the ideas behind “Embroidery of Disruption” and learn what’s ahead for the brand. Read on for the full conversation.
1. What inspired “Embroidery of Disruption,” and how did the idea first come to life?
Embroidery of Disruption is a continuation of our last collection, Seams of Dissent. Like the one before it, it started from a contradiction. The idea was to take something traditionally associated with precision and care—like embroidery—and reframe it as a tool for disruption. It’s about tension, subtle rebellion, and using technique to ask bigger questions.
2. Why was embroidery the right metaphor for disruption and rebellion?
Embroidery is slow and methodical. It’s not what you’d expect when thinking about protest or resistance. That contrast is exactly what drew us to it. There’s something powerful in turning something delicate into a quiet act of defiance. The disruption isn’t loud—it’s stitched in.
3. Can you share the story behind a specific motif or garment that feels especially personal to you?
Loose threads became one of the key visual motifs. They reference the idea of beauty in imperfection. We purposely left some pieces looking unfinished—raw hems, exposed seams, threads left hanging. It reflects how we experience the world: always in progress, never fully resolved, but still meaningful.
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4. What do you hope wearers feel or embody when putting on these pieces?
More than anything, I hope it sparks reflection. One of the graphics reads: I often catch myself defending my own country but do I really think it’s that good a place, or did I just grow up believing it is? That kind of questioning—internal, uncomfortable, necessary—is something we tried to embed into the work.
5. Can you tell us more about the t-shirt graphics and what inspired them?
The graphics pull from personal writing, philosophy, and things we tend to think but not say out loud. We kept them raw and almost handwritten—less like statements, more like thoughts in motion. They’re not always meant to be understood immediately.
We’re also continuing to collaborate with artists—especially those working in surrealism—where there’s a natural synergy. While the graphic work isn’t directly tied to embroidery, it plays a similar role: it invites questioning. Whether it’s a phrase or a symbol, the goal is the same—to prompt a pause, a second look, or a different perspective.
6. How does this collection deepen Pas Une Marque’s ongoing conversation between fashion and philosophy?
More than anything, I hope it sparks reflection. One of the graphics reads: I often catch myself defending my own country but do I really think it’s that good a place, or did I just grow up believing it is? That kind of questioning—internal, uncomfortable, necessary—is something we tried to embed into the work.
7. Was there a moment (personal or cultural) that shaped how you approached this collection?
Spending time in Japan had a big impact. Seeing the way detail and precision are treated—as something intentional and quiet—really shifted how I saw the work. It reminded me that the smallest details can carry the most weight.
8. How do you hope “Embroidery of Disruption” challenges the way people think about luxury fashion?
Luxury doesn’t have to mean polished or pristine. It can be thoughtful, raw, even uncomfortable. This collection leans into that—proving that meaning, process, and story can carry as much value as finish or fabrication.
9. Any other exciting upcoming launches or news?
There’s a lot in the pipeline, but most of it’s still under wraps. We’re developing some new collaborations
with artists and also laying the groundwork for our first brick-and-mortar space. It’s a big year for us.
Presented by: APG
