Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu is a man of the world. He has a Turkish father, an English mother, and was born and partially raised in Canada. Unsurprisingly he is known to take inspiration from a wide variety of themes. He is also known for his dramatic aesthetic, often using intricate prints and lace for his unusually draped and nipped wares. With all that in mind, this season was exactly what fans have come to expect from Moralıoğlu: theatrical clothes, with a wonderful inspiration. Fall 2019 told the story of Princess Orietta Doria Pamphilj, the real-life Roman aristocrat who died in 2000 at the age of 78.
Moralıoğlu specifically explored Pamphilj’s life in the 1960s in Rome. Titled “The Legacy of Inheritance,” the designer imagined the princess’ life just after her father died and she had inherited his vast estate. Prior to this Pamphilj was living in London where she had adopted a son. How did she feel returning to her life of heritage, aristocracy, and glamour after witnessing liberation and activism in London? This dichotomy is what intrigued Moralıoğlu.
The resulting collection is dark and decadent. As always Moralıoğlu has made excellent use of rich textiles, including brocades and lace. Some silhouettes were evocative of the early ’60s (especially the coats), but for the most part the designer stuck to the voluminous shapes he is known for. Most of the pieces featured ruffles, and some featured showstopping bows around the neck.
The front row was packed with an eclectic mix of admirers. Downton Abbey stars Laura Carmichael and Michelle Dockery were there to take it all in, as were Dianna Agron and the legendary Joan Collins. Hollywood royalty for Erdem’s royal inspiration — how fitting.
See more of the Fall 2019 collection below.