Milan Fashion Week may be over, but we’re still reeling from these amazing collections.
Versace presented its men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections together on the runway for the first time. For the most part this was a parred-down collection for Versace — until the finale, when Donatella presented a series of party-ready mini dresses. Overall it was a youthful outing, and quite a lot of fun. Presented in between was a series of tailored suits, some collegiate-inspired ensembles, and a series of bright florals similar to what was shown for Pre-Fall.
Could this collection be any more beautiful? “Soft power” was the starting point for creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi this season. A feminine color palette and ladylike silhouettes were mixed with strong, military-inspired tailoring. The construction of the clothes is breathtaking — nipped-in waists are created with corset-like boning, while exaggerated Juliette sleeves showcased the tailoring skills of the atelier.
Before the fashion world imploded at the news that Raf Simons would become co-creative director of the brand, Prada presented its Fall 2020 collection. It’s for the best they waited, because looking at this collection it’s clear Miuccia Prada has a handle on the situation. The office-ready collection has some fun details in the mix, including fringed skirts and colorful ribbed tights. That said, we’re curious to see how Simons pushes Miuccia to rethink the brand she’d helmed for decades.
So, this was probably the coziest collection out of Milan, right? The geometry-heavy collection was partially inspired by Edwin A. Abbott’s Flatland – A Romance of Many Dimensions. The various cardigans and jackets were incredibly chic, and also look comfortable.
Changing up the runway format, Alessandro Michele presented his collection on an enormous rotating platform that brought the backstage to the forefront. As soon as each model was dressed in their look, they waited at the edge of the platform, until it became a carousel of looks. After a few full rotations displaying the collection — which featured a lot of old-school romanticism and plenty of frills — everyone hopped off for a final walk. It will certainly go down as a memorable show — while carousels have been used several times in the past, this one actively helped present the collection rather than just being an elaborate set piece.
What happens when you mix Marie Antoinette with the bright colors of Tokyo? According to Jeremy Scott, “Anime Antoinette.” The designer’s Fall 2020 collection for Moschino was a cosplay version of the famed French queen, riffing on her alleged “let them eat cake” quote to an extreme.
7. Antonio Marras
A hint of horror. A dash of punk. Then throw in some florals for good measure. Antonio Marras’ Fall 2020 line is working with a lot of different elements, yet he manages to keep everything balanced. The result is a maximalist collection that encourages discovery — every ensemble requires a close look to spot all the different details. And in getting someone to look, he draws attention to lush brocades, lace, and delicate appliqués that show off his skill as a designer. There’s a lot of luxury hidden among grunge references and mild camp.
8. Moncler 8 Richard Quinn
Moncler has always chosen interesting and unexpected partners for its Genius collaboration series. Its success is largely in part to Moncler allowing said partners to completely exercise their ideas. Richard Quinn’s collection is a perfect example of this. Since winning the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2018, he has put forth a unique fashion vision — one that experiments juxtaposing avant-garde bodysuits (including face masks) with overwhelming floral patterns. Moncler gave him the opportunity to do what he does best, but with outwear. The result is both inventive and impressive.
9. Max Mara
The collection was inspired by daydreams of a life at sea, as seen through the lens of the Max Mara woman as she sits at her desk in her gorgeous office taking a moment for herself between high-powered meetings. Nautical touches brought whimsy and flair to a wardrobe full of elegant, boardroom-ready clothes. Also, the romantic, almost draping effect of the off-the-shoulder tailoring on many jackets and blazers was a fresh take on the power-shoulder trend that has been popular for the past few seasons.