Milan Fall 2013: Dsquared, Ports 1961
All that jazz much? Dan and Dean Caten sent out ’40s inspired looks that were divinely theatrical. The opener, a slinky slip gown with an elaborate train of blush ostrich feathers, just barely clung to Karmen Pedaru‘s body. Other black tie-friendly choices included a sky blue silk column dress, a champagne beaded chiffon dress and a black finale look with a fur fishtail cut skirt, also emphasized the train. While stunning, the style looked rather arduous for the gals trying to quickly sashay down the runway. They’re likely better suited on the upcoming Oscar’s tapis rouge. The tailoring is where the show took off, with double-breasted tailored suiting in tweeds and checks for day to black silk tuxes for evening. All were paired with oversize bow ties and the fedora capped models with cigarettes in hand, which emphasized le smoking theme and le drame.
Structured voluminous t-shirt and sweatshirt style tops, coat dresses, leather, layering: all of the trends du moment were there, but the skirts were the interesting focus in Fiona Cibani‘s Fall collection. Big swinging poodle skirts (sans poodle, of course!) were subtle stunners in heathered tweeds, wool, and black silk. The skirts were paired with jackets in varying lengths worn over sweaters, which were layered over the peeping shirttails of white button downs for a casually cool yet refined look. Just like dame du jour Lee Radziwill, whom Cibani cited as her inspiration for her timeless elegance. No doubt, Ms. Radziwill would radiate in sophisticated stylings, such as a grey and white silk floral printed sleeveless shift dress layered with a tweed pencil skirt, or a pair of wide-legged cream pants paired with a matching structured and short-sleeved sweater worn over a white turtleneck. But make no mistake: This refined yet versatile collection is cut for grand ladies of leisure and young girls-about-town alike.