Ann Demeulemeester: If Patti Smith wore dresses, this would be her wardrobe. Fitting, since Smith has often been cited as one of Demuelemeester’s muses. Fun fact: In 1991, when Demuelemeester debuted her first collection in Paris, the soundtrack was Smith’s album Wave. Billowing down the runway, not unlike waves, really, this season was all about femininely soft, yet hauntingly edgy looks from Demeulemeester. Think long-sleeve, high-collared, floor-length white dresses that resembled 19th century nightgowns. The look was repeated in sheer and ombre B&W versions, worn over pants. As for the accessories? Black moto-style boots and black or white chapeaus were punctuated with duos of lengthy feathers, poetically popping out of each side. Other looks, like a long black Victorian-style coat worn over a long white open shirt dress with a black leather bodice top, white pants, and tall, laced leather boots, exuded a bit of an equestrian vibe. Later on, a statement-caliber, white asymmetrical coat got an intense collar treatment, cinched with a black leather corset. The finale carried on, black leather and all, via tiered corsets worn with belted, high-waisted pants, in tune with the current menswear theme floating around for Fall. These pants, we do believe, will find themselves chez Smith.
