Ann Demeulemeester

Balmain: Long gone are Balmain’s over-the-top blinged out dresses cut extremely short, catapulting the label back into the public’s interest. Fret not! The glitz and glam have gone nowhere, they’ve just taken a bit more of a daytime approach to things. Suiting pieces got a welcome revamp from touches of quilted leather and denim, especially in the form of fitted jackets and full skirts. Blingage was readily dispersed on thick belts decorated with heavy chains, as well as tufts of feathers lining hems and glitter brocades covering what could have been a basic sweatshirt. It wouldn’t truly be Balmain if there wasn’t a heightened dose of sex appeal, coming to you in forms of sheer pencil skirts with showy slits, cardigans revealing skin via deep V necks, and super sheer shirts. Overalls were a frequent offender, as were chunky knit sweaters and cap-toe ankle boots in leather, lace, and denim.

Ann Demeulemeester: If Patti Smith wore dresses, this would be her wardrobe. Fitting, since Smith has often been cited as one of Demuelemeester’s muses. Fun fact: In 1991, when Demuelemeester debuted her first collection in Paris, the soundtrack was Smith’s album Wave. Billowing down the runway, not unlike waves, really, this season was all about femininely soft, yet hauntingly edgy looks from Demeulemeester. Think long-sleeve, high-collared, floor-length white dresses that resembled 19th century nightgowns. The look was repeated in sheer and ombre B&W versions, worn over pants. As for the accessories? Black moto-style boots and black or white chapeaus were punctuated with duos of lengthy feathers, poetically popping out of each side. Other looks, like a long black Victorian-style coat worn over a long white open shirt dress with a black leather bodice top, white pants, and tall, laced leather boots, exuded a bit of an equestrian vibe. Later on, a statement-caliber, white asymmetrical coat got an intense collar treatment, cinched with a black leather corset. The finale carried on, black leather and all, via tiered corsets worn with belted, high-waisted pants, in tune with the current menswear theme floating around for Fall. These pants, we do believe, will find themselves chez Smith.