Runway

Creatures of the Wind: Sophisticated layered separates was the general M.O. for Creatures of the Wind this season, comprised of boxy jackets, tailored pants, kicky little skirts with inverted box pleats, and lots of leather. The inspirations ranged from fifties Teddy Boys to eighties post-modern furniture design collective the Memphis Group, whose influence showed perhaps most strongly in a brightly colored jacquard that bore a kind of broken-looking pattern. There were athletic touches, too, evident in stripes on the sleeve of a jacket, front zipper closures on several collared shirts, and contrasting white trim of a deep V-neck top. Backstage, label co-founder Chris Peters explained that he had set about exploring “artificiality and its appeal.” The thoughtful treatment of kitsch territory recalled, in tone if not in any specific design, Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2012 collection, which explored the mid-century genericism of Googie architecture. Another outstanding outing for these Chicago boys!

Fresh from the reality-TV trenches, menswear maestro John Varvatos is still getting used to people asking for his autograph. The Daily stopped by his boutique on the Bowery to find out how he’s keeping his cool.
BY EDDIE ROCHE

She’s covered every A-list glossy on the planet, fronted all the top brands, and logged more runway miles than a 747. Now Naomi Campbell is ready to give back to fashion as a mentor on The Face. Watch and learn, ladies! BY EDDIE ROCHE

Edun: On Thursday, Edun set up house at Skylight Studios to present their socially-conscious women’s line, and debut Edun homme with their new menswear designer Ricky Hendry, formerly of Calvin Klein Collection, Ralph Lauren, and Theory. As expected, co-founders Bono and wife Ali Hewson were on hand to fete the occasion off stage. On stage, Edun’s rock-chic coupling sported edgy ensembles comprised of printed plaid asymmetrical dresses, tops pierced with silver chains, and plenty of leather vests and downtown motos. “This debut season really captured Edun and the Edun man,” Hendry told The Daily post-show. “It was a combination of toughness and softness, strength and sensitivity.”

Full Picture founder Desiree Gruber turned Heidi Klum into a global brand and Project Runway into a ratings juggernaut. She is a one-woman marketing machine, a true entrepreneur, and one of the nicest gals in the game. Hear her gentle roar! BY EDDIE ROCHE

Organic by John Patrick: “Back then, to catch a glimpse of Patti Astor was like spotting Greta Garbo,” said John Patrick of the East Village in the seventies, his former stomping grounds and the inspiration for his latest eco-friendly offering. What, pray tell, does the Organic girl wear below 14th Street? Slinky “fawn” colored biodegradable slips and oversize tees, grey flannel hot pants with wool and cashmere pullovers, and recycled cashmere Mouline knit suits with crop tops, naturally. Those were paired with a slew of outerwear options—storm coats, anoraks, and classic trenches—crafted from C02 natural yarns. Guilt-free and comfortable to boot? We’ll take it! Color came into play primarily during the finale, thanks to a flamingo pink sweatshirt dress. “Color evokes emotion,” Patrick told The Daily backstage post-show. “I use color to make people happy.” If the elevator chatter, not to mention the spontaneous games of ping pong on the sidelines, were any indication, it worked.

Tia Cibani: Yesterday, FGI Rising Star winner Tia Cibani debuted her second collection for her eponymous line post-Ports 1961. Cibani gave us a sneak peek at the thirties-inflected ethos last month (think Man Ray, Peggy Guggenheim and geometrics). The Baryshnikov Arts Center setting featured a paper installation by artist Kristen Hassenfeld, amounting to varied paper geomerty, including hexagonal star-esque shapes strung on frames. “I wanted something that felt precious and fragile,” Cibani told The Daily. On the frock front, a silver and gold metallic pleated “sunray” dress involved asymmetrical, tiered pleats and “brass honeycomb” paired with a calf-length pleated gold and silver silk lamé shirt. Cibani took her expertise in draping and pleating further via a champagne chainmail paillette kimono vest, knees-length, with a split and draped back. A bright fuschia georgette-chiffon long-sleeved dress was another standout, though it was apparently a cause for plenty of stress pre-show. “It was the last dress and it arrived at 12:30 p.m., right before our 2 p.m. showing,” Cibani recounted. “The pleat was so long, we had to cut, trim, and basically give it surgery.” Stressful much? Luckily, it all went off with out a hitch.

Valentino: Deep inside the Rocco suite of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli wove an enchanted fairy tale of such magic and frothy lightness that Valentino Garavani rose to his feet and embraced the dynamic duo post-show. The house’s “once upon a time” centered around a secret garden theme, complete with hand-painted floral frocks, lavish gowns encrusted with guipure, porcelain pearls, and crystals, and the ubiquitous birds of whimsy. Those winged creatures perched pretty in yards of black tulle on a bustier gown that took 600-plus hours to craft at the atelier. Others were spotted embroidered onto a porcelain silk gown, caged by a transparent cape in black piping that captured a time gone by yet remained modern. For a seasonal shot of Valentino red, look no further than a superb caped shift for an insta-update to the house’s staple skirtsuits. Bien fait, darlings.

Maison Martin Margiela
The label was officially awarded entré into the elite world of haute couture at the end of last season, rendering yesterday’s showing its second among the upper echelons of the fashion world. This wasn’t another parade of elegant gowns, so pervasive at couture shows: the anonymous team of designers began the show with masked models parading a pair of short black sleeveless collared dresses, one of which had a mid-section striped with white paint stripes.