Straight out of The Daily Summer: If there are two things that make ATM’s Anthony Thomas Melillo happy, it’s wearing a white V-neck (he is the master!) and hosting barbecues for his fashion set of pals at home in East Hampton. We visited the designer at his new NYC showroom digs to chat all things career and, of course, Hamptons.
What made you think that the world needed ATM?
When I launched ATM in 2012, it was just T-shirts. The real thought was that I love T-shirts, I wear them, and yes, I know that there are so many of them out there, but I still thought that there was an opportunity to do something that’s slightly different with a better quality and fit. Since I wear T-shirts every day, I saw little imperfections, like the V-neck wasn’t deep or wide enough. In terms of women, I have a lot of girlfriends who wear T-shirts too, and they’d complain. In noticing these imperfections, I realized that I could make the best T-shirts out there. In doing that, I wanted to make sure that the T-shirts got a presence, because I always knew there’d be a full-on brand in the future. It was important to not only come up with the best fabrics, designs, etc, but to also make sure it was presented properly. We launched exclusively with Barneys for the first two years. They were able to give it that whole presence: full-on racks and great presentation with signage. They made it feel like you weren’t just buying T-shirts, but rather the world of ATM.
How has the brand evolved since then?
Once we broke out of Barneys, we entered Neiman Marcus as our second retailer in an exclusive group of 24 locations. We’re also in 20 Saks Fifth Avenue and 30 Nordstrom stores. We grew it very organically while also making sure we were smart about not overpopulating the market.
Tell us about the other categories you’ve expanded into.
Barneys had a great success with our T-shirts right off the bat, so their team kept pushing me to do different categories. That’s truly how it evolved. They were like, “Why don’t you try sweaters? Why don’t you try sweats?” Eventually I just kept trying different categories until it developed into a lifestyle brand, which is pretty much what we are now. It was a natural progression because the clothes all have the same aesthetic: luxe, relaxed, and elegant. This fall shipment really completes all our categories.
What made you choose Laura Love to star in your fall campaign?
I met her at a dinner that Carlos Souza hosted. She has this reserved but quite elegant look. I knew of her before, but at that dinner, it made me think that she really has the vibe of what I think ATM stands for: not overbearing but very elegant while also timeless.
What were you doing before you started your brand?
I worked in magazines for 10 years; between working for American and Italian Condé Nast. The last five years of my magazine career was at Esquire as style director. I did all the covers, so I worked closely with celebrities. I found that they were conscious of looking casual while making sure the clothes fit, but in the ’90s, it was really hard to find those great basics. I thought it was crazy that they couldn’t find these pieces, so that was my first thought to start designing. I had no design experience, but I started thinking, “Alright, I’m just going to launch a little line of clothing,” so at that time I launched Nova in ’96. I was very young with no business sensibility. It lasted two years, but it was very well received, even with the CFDA. I was nominated for menswear designer of the year.
What were the CFDAs like in the ’90s?
It seemed very focused then. There were “x” amount of awards and that was it. Maybe just two or three people in four or five categories.
Have you been to the CFDAs since you were nominated?
Funny enough, this year I went with my friend Kelly Klein. She’s one of my best friends. We both hadn’t been back since I was nominated; Calvin [Klein] came with us then, too. I said to her this year, “Let’s go!” because I’m still a member, so we went for the first time in almost 18 years.
How did you and Kelly meet?
I met her through [contemporary artist] Ross Bleckner. I was at the beach one weekend and he got sick and couldn’t go to dinner so he was like, “Go to dinner with my friend Kelly. She’s great.” So I did.
Do people ever think that ATM stands for “automatic teller machine”?
Yes. That kind of thing is why we always have to put our name underneath, especially in the stores. It’s a requirement—we don’t just let them use ATM. I got a tattoo on my arm that says ATM when I was 17; it’s the same tattoo that’s on all of the T-shirts. And by the way, there were no ATM machines when I got the tattoo! It was just my initials. It’s in the exact spot as my tattoo, so it’s a little tribute.
Do you use ATMs frequently?
I actually don’t…like, at all! You really don’t need them. But when I do see ATMs, I usually take pictures because I love the different colors. It gives me inspiration for our branding. I look at the ATM fonts more than I do to use them.
How long have you been going to the Hamptons?
I’ve been going for quite a long time; the past 25 years. My first introduction was with Kelly. I’d spend every weekend at her house. It was the best house in the Hamptons. From there, I’d go on my own. I have a house in East Hampton. By the way, if I really need an ATM, I will go to the Chase next door to Blue & Cream in East.
How has the Hamptons changed since you started going out there?
The traffic has definitely changed. It’s gotten to be the worst.
How do you get out there?
I drive, usually on a Thursday night. The torture is going home.
What’s your house like?
It’s pretty minimal. There’s a lot of white cement and natural wood. It’s a theme I stick with there, the office, and at home in New York.
Do you entertain?
Yeah, it’s one of the best parts of being out there…barbecuing, especially. I love making steak for friends. It’s one of my favorite things I do. Having Round Swamp Farms nearby also helps. They have the best peach-rhubarb pie.
Go-to restaurant?
Moby’s on a Sunday night because it’s easy for pizza and pasta. Sometimes I’ll also stop in Southampton on my way to East for a coffee at Sant Ambroeus. But the reality is going out isn’t something I do that often. I haven’t even made it out to Montauk yet!
Who’s your Hamptons crew?
I see Kelly [Klein], Jenny Landey, Jason Weinberg, and his husband the most. But there’s probably 10 of us who are go-to’s.
Are you always wearing T-shirts out East?
I’m always wearing T-shirts, period. I really do. We make all these other clothes, so I’ll wear the sweaters, but I am not a dress shirt person. White V-neck T-shirts are my staple.
When was the last time you wore a tie?
Well, I guess the CFDAs, to be honest. And it was a bow tie. A straight tie is a real rarity.
