Sofia Achaval’s SS 21 Paris Fashion Week Diary: Day 4

by The Daily Front Row

It’s Paris Fashion Week; albeit not as we know it. The Daily Front Row‘s Paris correspondent, Sofia Achaval de Montaigu, lets us in on what’s happening online, and in real life, during the City of Light’s Spring Summer ’21 schedule.

Day 4: October 1, 2020

Chloé launched its collection named “A season in hope” in an outdoor show that took place at the stairs of the Palais de Tokyo, where we were given coffee and protection masks with the brand’s logo. The rain that had been falling stopped just in time for the show and the sun came out to enjoy the sparkly and cheerful offering, created by designer Natacha Ramsay-

Levi, which took us back to a summer in the ’70s. In line with Ramsay-Levi’s wish to show the clothes as if they were on the street, the models walked naturally between the rows of seats and then waited by the side of the runway for the ending of the show. The collection’s strong point came thanks to American artist Corita Kent: her work was printed on different garments and accessories, and contributed visual poetry and color, helping to build the “collage” spirit of the season. The overlaying of items played a big part when creating the looks, which resulted in a fun mixture of prints and textures. As always, accessories provided a boho vibe, and big leather belts stood out. Thick eyeliner intensified the models’ gazes, while hair was styled with gel and slicked back in a wet look.

Glenn Martens, the Y-PROJECT designer, introduced his collection for SS ’21 during a talk via Zoom, where he chatted about the new line and about this new way of remote working. Martens defines his designs as versatile, and that’s why he presented a video titled “How to wear” where he showed the different ways to use the items. For example, how a sporty
dress can transform into an office-appropriate one, through a button and laces system that allowed the different items to be worn on different occasions. We could see the items in detail in the lookbook photographed by Arnaud Lajeunie.
Floral motifs were the true protagonists, bringing delicacy to the avant-garde designs. Basic items like denim jeans and t-shirts popped up between volumes and drapery. Finally, bracelets that climbed over the models’ arms were the accessories that stood out in most of the outfits.

Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant´s show closed Paris Fashion Week day four at the Palais Royal, where each of the guests sat wherever we wanted, since the PR firm decided not to assign seats to anyone, as a pair of skaters moved around. When the show began, models strutted to the beat of Donna Summers’ I Feel Love, showing off the collection that had an obvious ’80s inspiration. Models were escorted by dancers from the (LA) HORDE group, who changed their outfits in consonance with every color segment of the show. Sporty items—with a Cyndi Lauper-esque twist—style were a constant presence in the collection and were full of sparkle: either paired with sequin leggings or metallic jackets. Super short shorts left the legs almost bare, while tops stood out for their voluminous sleeves. The final section was all about black and while it was less colorful, it was by no means less striking. A black leather onesie with studs, an asymmetric neckline, and a bare shoulder stole every flash from the photographers.

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