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People Don’t Talk Enough About Rabanne

Is it just me, or is Julien Dossena kind of underrated?

by Charles Manning

Designer Julien Dossena has been leading Rabanne since 2013 and as far as I’m concerned, he has yet to put out a bad collection. And yet, I feel like the fashion press, bloggers, magazine, whathaveyou don’t seem that interested in what he’s doing. Or, they don’t seem as interested as they should be given what stellar work he does.

Maybe it’s because Rabanne is a relatively small house without a huge ad budget — though they are hardly indie, since they are owned by Puig. Maybe it’s because they don’t do a lot of red carpet. Or maybe it’s because while every other major house is busy playing musical chairs and drumming up controversy with AI slop Instagram campaigns, Dossena is just sort of quietly turning out really special, gorgeous (if, at times, breathtakingly expensive) clothes. Season after season. Year after year. Which is great, but in the age of rage bate and hot takes, not exactly fodder for a clickable headline.

And yet, if there is one show I look forward to every season — including Resort and Pre-Fall — it’s Rabanne. I just think it is beautiful and cool with such a distinct point of view and I wonder why other people aren’t as gaga about it as I am.

Take the the most recent collection. The way he mixes materials and patterns — the lace with the palettes and the plaid — and how he transforms the brand’s signature metal mesh season after season, this time around turning it into a below the knee tea dress with a ditsy print, among other things. He even makes ditsy floral prints look cool!

There’s such tremendous confidence in his work.

And the styling is never anything less than incredible. Marie Amelie Suave is not messing around.

I love the way she layers everything. The sheer dresses with the embroidery over the lingerie-inspired slips and camisoles over the sweaters. It’s so maximalist, but also so precise, which is why it works so well. And I can’t help but feel that as minimalism and quiet luxury continue to trend, this, what Dossena and his team are doing at Rabanne is so needed, so vital. These are the kinds of clothes you can actually really get excited about. They’re fun, and playful, and special, and inspiring and isn’t it clothes like that that got us all excited about this industry to begin with?

Check out the rest of Rabanne’s Fall 2026 collection below.

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