Albert Kriemler’s arty prints at Akris, Esteban Cortázar’s ode to Columbia, and Yazbukey’s Egyptian-themed presentation—fashion editor-at-large and stylist Sofia Achaval de Montaigu gives us her Paris Fashion Week report.
The inspiration behind Albert Kriemler’s designs at Akris this season came from an Alexander Girard exhibition he saw in the Vitra Design Museum, “A Designer’s Universe.” The prints of the wooden figures that served as the backdrop for the show were Girard reproductions. The clothing also reflected Girard’s dolls, printed on silk crepe dresses and pantsuits, and Girard’s vibrant color palette was used throughout the collection. White Girard sketches appeared toward the end of the show on easy black chiffon gowns. One of my favorite looks was a drawstring dress in shades of pink, orange, yellow, and baby blue and a Double Heart cotton St. Gallen embroidery A-line gown.
Today I attended Esteban Cortázar’s fashion show at the Salle Melpomène in Paris. The venue, the walls, and the carpet were all painted in beige. The models sported a sleek wet hair look and little makeup. The clothing was a mix of chic sportswear, unusual combinations of knits and chiffon, jumpsuits folded down into pants, and sky prints.
My favorite looks closed the show” dresses with colorful prints in red, yellow, and blue over white that mimicked the colors of the Colombian Flag. [Cortázar was born in Bogotá but grew up in Miami.] The show was set to the beat of tribal-themed techno and the infectious energy and optimism of the show caught on with guests. Cortázar took his bow to a round of applause and cheers.
Speaking of Colombia, I also went to Johanna Ortiz´s presentation at the Colombian ambassador’s private residence, which is a beautiful house with an incredible garden full of flowers.
The models were spread out throughout the residence either perched around the house or walking. Despite her South American roots, Ortiz was instead inspired by the Polynesian women in Paul Gaugin’s paintings. His brushstrokes influenced the floral prints while some of the actual blossoms were based on Colombian orchids. While Ortiz presented many of her ruffled hits in dresses and shirting, she also incorporated Kimono-like robes worn over jeans. The presentation was followed by a cocktail party, which included Columbian delicacies like chontaduro, a peach palm fruit.
I went to Yazbukey’s fashion show at Théâtre de Nesle in Paris, and it was one of the most fun presentations that I’ve been to during Fashion Week. I know Yaz very well from when I studied fashion at Studio Berçot. I really admire her work.
Yazbukey’s collection is inspired by her mother, a famous Egyptologist known for studying the influential roles played by women in Ancient Egyptian society. Yazbukey thought about how life must have been for these women who were able to enjoy their rights as men did in a time when it was uncommon in other parts of the world.
The show included tweaks on ancient symbols, red lips furtively hiding behind Doric columns, and winking suns. There was plenty of sunbathing attire, like beach cover-ups, pillows, beach towels, and leather sandals.
All of this could also be seen in the scenography and the styling of the models and dancers who performed in an imitation desert setting. There was a little stage where music, choreography, and the runway walk were blended into one. The models wore bikinis, towels, and bijoux. Anna Cleveland wore a bodysuit with hanging golden mirrors that twinkled as she moved. The show was really fresh and fun!
The setting for the DROMe show included a green carpet and techno music. The brand specializes in leather and this season they came in pastels like a vivid lavender coat with ruched sleeves (a must come Spring) or a mint shirt dress with slits up the arms. A white leather bra top that wrapped around the midriff, which was shown on more than one look also stood out.
When you consider that all of the deconstruction, ruching, and cut-out lattice details in skirts and tunics are in leather, you can really understand the artistry and craft put into each look.