Paris Fall 2026 Menswear Superlatives

The menswear shows just wrapped up in Paris and boy were they a doozy! Designers took big swings — from Jonathan Anderson’s punk-meets-Poiret mashup at Dior, to Mike Amiri’s cowboy dandyism at AMIRI, to Julian Klausner’s more-is-more print mixing at Dries Van Noten. Some of these swings really landed — we’re looking at you, Junya Watanabe — while others… well, let’s just say there’s a customer out there for everyone. And just because a collection isn’t universally lauded, doesn’t mean it doesn’t have its standout moments. Honestly, every show this season had something worth gushing about. Something so distinct that it was downright award-worthy. These awards, to be specific.

Best Slumber Party Formalwear: Jacquemus
It was all very “Little Nemo goes to the opera” with the boxer shorts tuxedos and the Pagliacci fascinators and the bags shaped like counting sheep. And the proportions, as always, were just so [chef’s kiss]! Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus really is a master when it comes to draping the male body. Everyone looks so hot and muscle-y in his clothes. So what if a few of them forgot to put on their pants. I’m certainly not complaining.

Most Likely to Bankrupt Orville Peck: AMIRI
I’m not sure how robust the honky-tonk-dandy market really is. But I feel certain that the queer cowboys of the world are going to take on some serious credit card debt when this collection hits stores. And some of these pieces are just the right side of costume-y that I fear I might as well.

Most Likely to Stalk an 1888 London Alley: Junya Watanabe
There was something very sinister about this show and these looks, but rendered with such incredible beauty and finesse. I mean… I feel like any one of these guys could kill me and I’d be like “But no, seriously, who made that fabulous coat?” The tonal patchwork pieces are absolutely gorgeous (perhaps the best of the season). And I’m not sure I’ve ever wanted a Levi’s collaboration more.

Most Likely to Trigger Your Pittakionophobia: Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
Stickers! Stickers everywhere! But also some really gorgeous jackets.

Most… Just the Most: Dior
The sparkles and the prints and the 3D embellishments and the draping and the volume and the faux fur cuffs the size of small trashcans and the Halloween store wigs and the Poiret-meets-Hedi-Slimane’s-Dior-Homme-meets-your-granny’s-closet of it all was a lot. The most even. But I’m not prepared to say that it was too much. Because after years of Dior shows (before the start of designer Jonathan Anderson’s tenure) that, honestly, left me wanting a whole lot more, it’s exciting to see Anderson really go all out. And there is wearable stuff in there. It’s hiding a little bit, but that’s okay. Who goes to a runway show — let alone a Dior runway show — to see basic jeans and blazers anyway? Anderson is exploring right now. Let him cook!

Best Leather Jacket: Sacai
It’s not a clever category, but when I saw that brown leather blazer thing, I gasped, so that’s the award they are getting! Although, seriously, there was so much beautiful, interesting stuff going on in this show: those matching pant and jacket sets, the incredible layering, the way so many of the pants were cut to look like they had shorts on top of them, which (to my mind) should not have worked as well as it did. And it REALLY did. Also, I know I said that Junya Watanabe had the best patchwork pieces of the season, but Sacai is really giving them a run for their money. Absolutely stunning.

Most Likely to Costume a Live-Action Anime Adaptation: KidSuper
The models in this show looked like they just stepped out of some anime I am nowhere near cool enough to have seen. And damn did they look good doing it. Some of the coats are truly magnificent. And if you ask me, designer Colm Dillane is really making a very compelling argument for the viability of the full leather suit.

Quietest Luxury: Hermès
In a season full of clothes that shout  — and do I love that about them — Véronique Nichanian’s final collection for Hermès dared to whisper. And what it’s whispering is: I have more money than god. And impeccable taste. Not that every look was so quiet. But Nichanian is a master of restraint — as she has shown time and time again during her decades at Hermès — managing to make even head-to -toe crocodile look elegant. Grace Wales Bonner has some big shoes to fill next seasont.

Most Likely to Collaborate With The Sims: Willy Chavarria
Maybe it was the set. The set was definitely part of it. All those models walking around each other like a bunch of NPCs (non-playable characters) in a live action video game. You really got a sense of the diverse characters that can and do inhabit Chavarria’s world — each one extremely cool and a little dangerous and very, very chic.

Willy Chavarria Fall 2026