(PARIS) Rick Owens
Plenty of designers cull inspiration from Asia, but Rick Owens delivered a smashing collection of variations on the Japanese kimono this season without going too far into the theatrical thematics, never losing his dark edge. No cherry blossoms in this show, for starters. The show opened with a simple, white, two tiered dress layered with a black fur kimono shawl, along with a white fur floor-length vest and ghostly frizzy hair in a decidedly pervasive poof of a style. Other kimono styles came in pieces like a black jacket with a knot design worn over a white skirt with black underpinnings and boots with white rope detailing, or a stunning coat, in B&W, contrastively knotted at the waist, worn over a knee-length silk skirt. For a softer touch, dresses at the finale finished in silk came in simple deep-v shifts in that same neutral territory of black, greys, and white, with signature layering pieces like a trailing silk scarf on the finale look. It had that ethereal, haunting feel that we’ve seen in some of the Paris collections, and Owens’ fierce phantoms truly owned the scene.